在英国 In Britain
我们每周要喝掉约五亿杯咖啡 we drink almost 500 million cups of coffee every week.
但我们对咖啡的产地又了解多少呢 But how much do we really know about where our coffee comes from?
我将探访田间 I'm on a journey from the fields...
老天爷 Flippin' 'eck!
深入工厂 to the factories...
咖啡 Coffee!
揭开我们早晨提神饮品的背后 to uncover the surprising stories
令人惊奇的故事 behind our morning pick-me-up.
羽主席 你居然开宾利 Chairman Vu, you've got a Bentley!
英国几乎每个商业街上都有咖啡馆 Coffee shops now sell lattes and cappuccinos
贩售拿铁和卡布奇诺 on almost every British high street,
但我们对便宜的速溶咖啡的热爱持续了几十年 but we've loved cheaper instant coffee for decades.
最佳的咖啡口味 If you want the best coffee taste
源自最好的咖啡豆 以最佳比例混合 you need the best blend of the best beans.
速溶咖啡的生产 Producing instant coffee
产生了巨大的影响 to fill our cups is having a huge impact.
过去曾有两千多只野生大象生活在越南境内 There were up to 2,000 wild elephants in Vietnam.
现在只剩几十只 There's now just a few dozen left.
这趟旅程中 On my journey
我将探索我们杯中平凡的咖啡 I discover how our humble cup of coffee
如何改变了一个国家的命运 has helped transform the fortunes of a nation.
太感谢了 Thank you very much!
这可是我辛苦赚来的 I worked hard for this!
我正踏上咖啡之旅 I'm following The Coffee Trail.
西蒙·里夫
咖啡之旅
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本字幕由人人影视字幕组翻译 禁止用作任何商业盈利行为
翻译：潇湘月影 Kerry 喃喃 t1rry 木瓜一号
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翻译：树妖 宝宝 几米花 ellaxinxin 滚成一个团子
校对：麦结 时间轴：旅行的木讷
我敢说 如果你问英国人 I bet if you asked most Brits
后期&特效：蜡笔小新的眉毛 总监： 麦结
他们喝的咖啡来自哪里 where their coffee comes from,
大部分人都不会提及这里 they wouldn't say here.
我在越南 I'm in Vietnam.
想到咖啡 你一般会联想到巴西 When you think of coffee, you usually think of Brazil,
牙买加或是哥伦比亚 Jamaica or Colombia.
天呐 Oh, goodness me.
我的咖啡之旅的第一站是河内 The first stop on my coffee trail is Hanoi,
坐落于越南北部的首都城市 the capital city in the north of Vietnam.
我觉得该向左拐了 I've got to go left here, I think.
这里大街小巷都挤满了 The streets here, the roads anyway, they're clogged with...
骑机车的疯子 mad motorcyclists,
骑小摩托的精神病 psychopathic scooter drivers
和想要骑着自行车自杀的人 and suicidal cyclists!
越南人口超过九千万 There are more than 90 million people in Vietnam,
他们现在似乎都挡在我前面 and they all seem to be in my way.
你在干什么呢 女士 你在干什么呢 What are you doing, madam? What are you doing?!
越南是对英国最大的咖啡出口国 Vietnam is the number one supplier of coffee to the UK
也是世界上最大的咖啡供应国之一 and one of the largest coffee producers in the world.
该来杯咖啡了 Oof! Time, I think, for a quick coffee.
咖啡馆 又是咖啡馆 Coffee shop, another coffee shop.
前面还有一家 这里到处都是咖啡馆 There's another one ahead. There's coffee shops everywhere here.
越南人种植了大量咖啡 The Vietnamese grow huge quantities of coffee
他们的消耗量也非常大 and now drink it by the gallon.
但他们尤其偏爱一种咖啡 But they like a very particular brew.
-一杯蛋泡咖啡 -蛋泡咖啡 - Ca phe trung. - Ah, ca phe trung.
-蛋泡咖啡对吧 -对 蛋泡咖啡 - Ca phe trung? - Ah, ca phe trung.
谢谢 Thank you.
越南版的卡布奇诺 The Vietnamese version of a cappuccino
和我想的不太一样 wasn't quite what I was expecting.
这玩笑开大了 I think the joke is on me.
他们让我点一杯蛋泡咖啡 "Go and order a ca phe trung", they said.
我没问蛋泡咖啡是什么 "What is a ca phe trung?" Is the question I did not ask.
里面要放鸡蛋吗 Are there eggs in this coffee?
加蛋的咖啡 Egg coffee.
蛋泡咖啡是加蛋的咖啡吗 Ca phe trung is an egg coffee?
对 Egg coffee.
这太不对劲了 That's just not right!
至少这不是本店的另一个特色 At least it wasn't another speciality here,
从鼬的粪便中提取出的咖啡豆 coffee beans extracted from weasel droppings.
加蛋咖啡 Eggy coffee.
-很好喝 -谢谢 - That's delicious. - Thank you.
真不错 Really good.
我们该出发了 I think we need to get on a journey
去看看这些越南咖啡是在哪里生产的 and find out where this Vietnamese coffee's being made.
三十年前 30 years ago,
全世界不到0.1%的咖啡产自越南 less than 0.1% of global coffee production came from Vietnam,
仅仅几十年过去 这里已经成为了 but in just a few decades this country has transformed itself
全世界咖啡主要产地之一 into one of the world's leading coffee producers.
我要一张去东河镇的票 Hi. Can I get a ticket to Dong Ha, please?
他们在首都喝咖啡 却不在这里种植 They drink coffee in the capital, but they don't grow it here.
想要了解咖啡的种植 我得南下 And to see that, I need to head south.
谢谢 Thank you.
是这儿 好吧 It's here. OK.
挺好啊 Oh, it's all right.
这里有空调 Oh, it's got a bit of air conditioning, which,
说实话 这让我松了口气 well, to be honest, I'm quite relieved about.
还有一盆可爱的... Oh, and a lovely...
装饰花卉 floral display.
我能感觉到火车在我下方发动 I can feel the train powering up underneath me,
我们快要出发了 so we're just about to leave.
真激动啊 It's exciting!
他们准时发车了 I tell you what, they're dead on time.
十一点 11 o'clock.
越南咖啡的故事要追溯到一百多年前 The story of coffee in Vietnam goes back more than 100 years.
咖啡最初由法国人于十九世纪引进 Coffee was first introduced by the French in the 19th century.
越南当时与柬埔寨 老挝一样 Vietnam was part of a colony known as French Indochina,
是法属印度支那殖民地的一部分 which also included Cambodia and Laos.
从十九世纪后期开始 The French ruled Vietnam
法国人统治了越南将近七十年 for almost 70 years from the late 1800s.
法国人尽可能地压榨越南 They milked the country for anything they could extract,
牟取暴利 earning vast fortunes.
殖民统治是残酷的 Colonial rule could be brutal.
越南工人在田里辛苦劳作 Vietnamese workers toiled
种植橡胶 茶 水稻和咖啡 in the fields to produce rubber, tea, rice and coffee.
二十世纪五十年代 北方共产党起义 French rule finally came to an end in the 1950s,
法国统治最终结束 after a Communist uprising in the North
法国人被赶出越南 drove them from the country.
数以万计的人在这次冲突中毙命 The conflict claimed tens of thousands of lives.
1954年 一场和平会议 In 1954, a peace conference
导致了越南的分裂 resulted in the country being partitioned,
北部由共产党统治 with a Communist government in North Vietnam
南部则有美国做后盾 and an American-backed regime in the South.
但是一场新的甚至更血腥的战争爆发了 But a new and even more bloody war loomed.
我从首都向南行进了644公里 I'd travelled 400 miles south from the capital.
是时候出发上山了 It was time to head up into the hills.
这里大规模种植咖啡 Coffee is grown here on a vast scale.
快看那里 咖啡 Look there! Coffee!
我们来到了咖啡之国 We've arrived in coffee country.
这里是越南的咖啡种植区之一 This is one of the areas of Vietnam where they grow our coffee,
出口到英国还有其他几个国家 coffee for us and a few other countries.
奶牛被吓跑了 The cow is spooked, it's off.
我居然发现这是头公牛 I think you'll find the cow is a bull, Simon.
我来到了香山村 I was visiting the village of Huong Son.
我们到了 We've arrived.
现在越南的咖啡业 The coffee industry in Vietnam
为数百万的人提供了生计 now provides a livelihood for millions of people,
大部分都是像这样的小农场 占地仅几公顷 mostly around small farms like this of just a few acres.
全国各地 像胡波一样的农民 Across the country, farmers like Ho Bon,
能生产惊人的一百五十万吨咖啡 produce a staggering million and a half tonnes of coffee.
这是越南的主要出口商品 It's a key export for the country,
也是英国首要的咖啡供应国 and our number one source of coffee in Britain.
看 树上长满了咖啡豆 These are all the coffee on the plant here, look at this.
可以采摘了 This is ready to pick!
好的 我们走吧
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快走 我们去摘点儿咖啡 Let's go, OK! Let's go pick some coffee!
到树丛里去摘
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我来摘这里的
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你们是要把所有的都摘下还是只是 Do you take everything off or just the...?
告诉他摘咖啡豆时要用双手
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好的 只摘红色的 好的 OK, so just the red, all right, OK.
从树上摘时 你得摘好的
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像这样小的是没用的
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这个怎么了 What's wrong with that?
他在摇头 Oh, he's shaking his head.
他不知道
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这样的才是你要摘的 而不是这样的 That specifically is what you're after. None of this.
咖啡是世界上最有价值的商品之一 Coffee is one of the most valuable traded goods on Earth.
在全球 咖啡产业价值超过四百亿 Globally the industry's worth more than 40 billion.
咖啡是全球交易中 It's the single most important
最重要的一种热带商品 tropical commodity traded worldwide,
它几乎占所有热带商品总出口额的一半 accounting for nearly half of total exports of tropical products.
你为什么选择种植咖啡 Why do you choose coffee as the crop that you grow?
而不是种些其他什么的 Why not something else?
我们以前种其他的庄稼
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但是咖啡带给我们的收入很高
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所以现在我们就种咖啡了
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所以虽然种咖啡很辛苦 So, coffee is more work, it's harder work
但是你们可以挣更多的钱 but you can make more money from it.
是的 收入更多
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那些留在树上 这棵树摘完了 So leave those on. That's done! That one is done.
我们再往里走 So we move in.
这应该是咖啡果实 This is the coffee fruit, I suppose,
里面是重要的咖啡豆 and inside is the rather crucial coffee bean.
味道像酸葡萄 Tastes like, um, like a sour grape.
但是从这里面可以得到这个 But from it you get this.
你可以看到上面的线 这是咖啡的特征 You can see the line through it, which indicates the coffee.
很显然 在一个果实里 And you get two, obviously, in one...
有两颗咖啡豆 ...in one fruit.
波 我以后在你这儿摘咖啡有前途吗 Bon, do you think I might have a future as one of your coffee pickers?
我在这儿应该还有点儿用 Because I've gone some uses, you know,
我又瘦又高 I'm quite lanky
我可以够到咖啡树最上面 so I can get to the very top of the plant
摘到树梢上的咖啡果实 and pick off the cherries, the fruits from there.
个高是好 但矮点儿更好
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高个儿动作慢
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我必须承认这是个问题 That could be a problem, I must admit.
这里的村民穿的制服 The villagers here wear uniforms
是从越南战争留下的 left over from what we call the Vietnam War.
那次冲突仍是影响着今日的越南 It was the conflict that still defines Vietnam today.
1965年 美国作战部队 In 1965, American combat troops were deployed
部署于南越南政府以支持他们 to support the South Vietnamese government,
美国兵要与共产党的游击战作战 which was facing a guerrilla campaign by Communist forces.
美国兵的职责只是防守 Their duty will be strictly defensive,
但是如果受到攻击时他们可以回击 but they will shoot back if attacked.
海军陆战队通常如此 Marines usually do.
几年之内 美国参与了全规模的战争 Within a few years, America had more than half a million troops
他们在陆地上拥有超过五十万人的军队 on the ground, engaged in a full-scale war.
离开村庄走一小时就到了溪生村 An hour away from the village is Khe Sanh,
这里曾是美国空军基地的主要地点 once a key American airbase,
也是越南战争中 and the site of one of
最重要的战役中的遗址 the most important battles of the Vietnam War.
武伟玉是名导游 Van Ngoc Vu is a guide,
他带领游客参观战场遗址 who's been showing visitors around the battlefield
已经十多年 for more than ten years.
美国军队向溪生周围的丘陵地区 The US dropped in total about 100,000 tonnes of bombs
投掷了总计约有十万吨的炸药 on the surrounding hills of Khe Sanh,
那里是北越军队的驻地 on the North Vietnamese army position,
至少他们怀疑是 suspected North Vietnamese army position.
那是战争史上最密集的一次轰炸 That's the most concentrated bombing in the history of warfare.
-史上最密集的一次轰炸 -是的 - The most concentrated period of bombing ever? - Yeah.
实际上是在山谷 So, well, in this valley effectively
以及周边的丘陵地区吗 and on the hills around here?
是的 Yeah.
1968年 共产主义的北越军队 In 1968, Communist North Vietnamese forces
袭击了美国空军基地 attacked the American airbase.
美国海军陆战队被包围 US Marines were cut off,
美国空军以排山倒海之势反击 and the US Air Force responded with overwhelming force.
成千上万的越南士兵与平民死亡 Thousands of Vietnamese soldiers and civilians died,
还有数百名美国人 along with hundreds of Americans.
看看这炸弹的个头 Look at the size of this.
这是美国人投掷在这附近的 Is this the biggest type of bomb
最大的炸弹吗 that the Americans dropped on the positions around here?
不是 No, not really.
最大的炸弹 The biggest one is, er,
比这个大十倍 重十倍 ten times bigger, heavier than this one.
有5.6吨重 15,000lbs.
重十倍 Ten times heavier?!
是的 这个只有560千克 Yeah, this one is 1,500lbs.
就是这些炸弹以倾盆之势从天而降 This was what was pouring out the skies, then,
袭击了北越军队驻地 onto the North Vietnamese positions.
是的 就像下雨一样 Yeah, it was raining.
对啊 枪林弹雨 Raining from the sky, yes.
溪生附近的未爆炸弹 Coffee planters still have lots of problems
仍然对咖啡种植户造成威胁 from the unexploded bombs around Khe Sanh.
所以说还有像这样的炸弹埋在地里 So there are still bombs like this buried in the ground,
是的 Yes.
虽然没有在倒计时 not quite tick-ticking,
但只要一个农民或一辆拖拉机 but just waiting for a farmer or a tractor
在它上面挥犁动土 with a plough to go over the top of them
就可能爆炸 and potentially set them off.
正是如此 Yeah, exactly.
在这周围走动有危险吗 Is it safe to walk around here?
地里还有未爆炸弹吗 Are there any unexploded bombs in the ground?
在溪生作战基地里面是安全的 It is safe inside the Khe Sanh combat base.
实际上 作为一个旅游景点 Now, actually, it's a tourist attraction
这里的炸弹都被清除了 没有危险 so it was cleared, this is safe.
但是如果你 But if you wander around, walking around,
走出了溪生的边界 outside the perimeter of Khe Sanh,
威胁仍然存在 it's still dangerous, there's still
那里仍然有未爆炸的地雷和军火 lots of unexploded land mines, ordnance up there.
-真的吗 -是的 仅在广治省 - Really? - Yeah. In Quang Tri Province alone,
估计就有80%到83%的土地 it's estimated between 80, 83% of land
存在未爆炸军火的隐患 is still being affected with unexploded ordnance.
距越战结束已有将近四十年了 The war ended nearly 40 years ago,
但这片地区仍然极度贫困 but this area is still desperately poor.
种植咖啡是这里主要的收入来源 Growing coffee is a major source of income here.
就算存在未爆炸弹的威胁 The need to put food on the table drives people
养家糊口的需要也迫使人们 to take chances, and working the fields,
冒着危险下地干活 despite the risks posed by unexploded bombs.
你好 Hello!
你好 你好 Hello! Hello!
和大多数越南人一样 Like most Vietnamese,
十八岁的倪胡伟在战争结束后很久才出生 18-year-old Ho Ver Nee was born long after the war ended.
种植咖啡是我们在这里唯一能做的事 Growing coffee is the only thing we do around here.
我们种植咖啡 We grow coffee.
我不种橡胶树等其它作物 I don't plant other crops like rubber trees.
我的所有朋友都种咖啡 所以我也种 All of my friends, they grow coffee, so I grow coffee as well.
但是过去的一年里他却不能下地劳作 But for the past year he has been unable to work on his farm.
你能告诉我们发生了什么吗 Can you tell us what happened to you?
我当时在为种咖啡开垦土地 I was digging in the ground to plant coffee.
我一大早就开始干活 I'd gone to work very early
我正在清除杂草 挖洞 and I was clearing away grass and digging holes.
当我在挖洞的时候 爆炸发生了 As I was digging a hole there was an explosion.
我被炸得失去了知觉 I was knocked unconscious
记不起当时的任何事 and I can't remember anything else.
等我醒来 我发现自己在医院里 When I came around I realised I was in the hospital.
我一直在想我的父母 很害怕自己会死去 I kept thinking of my parents. I was scared I was going to die.
你知道在地里 Did you have any idea that there might be
还有炸弹地雷之类的东西吗 explosives or bombs or mines still in the ground in that field?
知道 有一个人已经被炸死了 Yes, one person had already been killed.
那为什么人们还要下地干活 Why are there people still working there?
我们非常穷 We're very poor
米不够吃 and we don't have enough rice to eat.
我被震惊了 但是在战争结束后 I find it astonishing, but more than 100,000
已经有超过十万越南人 Vietnamese have been killed or injured
死伤于未爆炸弹 by unexploded bombs since the end of the conflict.
对于像这样的农村居民来说 For rural populations like this,
和平协议的签署并不意味着战争的结束 wars rarely end when peace treaties are signed.
现代武器埋藏在脚下的土壤之中 Modern weaponry lives long in the soil,
每年夺走成千上万的人的生命 claiming thousands of lives globally every year.
我们走了之后 他终于装上了合适的假腿 Since we left, he has at last been fitted for a prosthetic leg.
但是整个越南还有 But thousands of other
成千上万残疾的越南农民 maimed villagers and farmers across Vietnam
尚未得到帮助 have yet to receive help.
1975年美国战败 Following America's defeat
越战结束以后 and the end of the Vietnam War in 1975,
一个共产主义政党 North and South Vietnam
统一了北越和南越 were unified under a Communist government.
历经多年战火摧残 After years of devastating conflict,
这个国家的经济已经满目疮痍 the country was in economic ruin.
咖啡在它最终的复苏中扮演着重要的角色 Coffee was to play a key role in its eventual recovery.
我南下前往咖啡的主要产地 I headed south towards the main coffee growing region.
出发几个小时后 气候开始变化 A few hours into our journey, the weather began to turn.
我们笔直地驶入一个巨型的热带气旋 We'd driven straight into a huge tropical cyclone.
将车停在路边是因为我们真的见识到 Just stopped by the side of the road because now we really see
台风那摧毁性的力量 the power, the destructive force of the cyclone.
海水不断的涌入 淹没着人们的家园 The sea is flooding in, inundating people's homes down here.
台风百合对越南中部造成了大范围的损坏 Cyclone Nari was causing widespread damage in central Vietnam.
台风百合: 2013年10月的强台风 在菲律宾 老挝 越南等国造成巨大破坏
失踪或死亡人数达到十六人 16 people had been killed or were missing.
快看这个 Look at this!
五万栋房屋被淹没或者摧毁 50,000 homes had been destroyed or flooded.
这是今年最严重的一次台风 It was the worst cyclone in years.
快看这颗树 Look at the tree here!
科学家们称这里的天气情况 Scientists report the weather
正在变得更加极端并且不可预测 here is becoming more extreme and unpredictable.
这是全球气候变化所导致的结果 It's a consequence of global climate change.
在越南肆虐的台风 The cyclones that are hitting Vietnam
正变的更加猛烈和强大 are becoming stronger and more powerful.
如果你是一个咖啡种植户 那么 If you're a coffee farmer, say,
这是毁灭性的的打击 this is devastating.
随着台风的减弱 我继续南下 As the storm subsided, I continued south.
我的旅程带领我进入了 My journey had taken me through some of Vietnam's remoter regions,
一些游客和摄制组很少去到的偏远地区 which tourists and TV crews rarely enter,
外国人驶离主要道路时需要进行额外的申请 and foreigners who do require extra permits to turn off main roads.
当我们偏离了我们的路线时 When we'd strayed off our route,
就被警察拦下来 不得不立即原路返回 we'd been stopped by the police and had to beat a hasty retreat.
好了 看上去警察是准备 Ok, so it looked like the police were going to
在这把我们拦下来甚至是逮捕我们 stop us or even arrest us there,
但我认为我们已经驱车离开他们了 but I think we've just driven off away from them,
他们也没有跟过来 they're not following.
他们也许认为 They might have decided
我们并没有什么威胁 we're just more problems than we're worth.
越南仍然是一党统治的社会主义国家 Vietnam is still an authoritarian, one-party, Communist state.
政治上的异见会被压制 Political opposition is suppressed
同时也没有言论自由 and there's little freedom of speech.
我们的拍摄是受到一定程度的 Our filming here is being controlled
控制以及限制的 我们还有一位 and restricted to a degree and we also have
受政府批准并且一同随行的保镖 a government-approved minder who's travelling with us.
我们要注意拍摄的内容 We're going to have to be careful about what we film,
交流的对象以及提问的内容 who we talk to and what we ask.
我已经抵达了中部高地 I'd arrived in the central highlands.
咖啡种植的历史 The history of coffee production
是这里最敏感的争议之一 is one of the most sensitive issues here
因为它涉及到这块地区被咖啡农场占据 because it involved blanketing this region with coffee farms,
人权遭到践踏 human rights abuses
以及百万人口的迁移 and the mass movement of millions of people.
我拜访了彭阮胡 新住民之一 I visited Nguyen Hu Phuong, one of the newcomers.
他拥有三公顷的小块农田 He has a smallholding of three hectares.
你好 Xin chao.
你是彭对吧 Phuong? Phuong?
你好 伙计 我叫西蒙 Hello, mate, I'm Simon,
很高兴见到你 very nice to meet you.
周围这些咖啡树都是你的吗 Is this all your coffee around us?
对的 这些都是属于我农场的
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我来带你参观一下咖啡树
■
我们去瞧瞧吧 Let's go and have a look.
谢谢 Thank you.
你好 Xin chao
天哪 Goodness me!
你现在正在采集咖啡豆吗 So you're collecting up the beans now?
现在已经到收获季了吗 It's harvest time?
-你要我提着它吗 -对的 - Do you want me to hold it? - Yes! Yes!
拉
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来吧 Come on then.
天哪 你工作还没完成吧 Oh, goodness, no, you haven't finished.
你得把这些果实都剥开 You're going to pull all those berries off.
你来到这边有多久了而且你为什么要来呢 So, how long have you been here and why did you come?
我1988年就来这边了
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我来这边的原因是我想成为咖啡种植户
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那你之前不是住在这块地方的吗 So you're not from this area then?
共产党安排群众 特别是来自北方的人
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搬到这里定居 因为当时这里人口稀少
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所以这里才能成为咖啡种植地
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中部高地很适合种植咖啡
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所以我们政府就颁布了政策来推动咖啡生产
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你第一次到这的时候这块土地是什么样的 What was this land like when you first arrived here?
这里已经是咖啡农场了吗 Was it a coffee farm already?
我刚来的时候这里都还是森林
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然后政府给我们机器来砍倒树林 耕出农田
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接着再培养土壤 最后才能开始种植
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对于你来说在这里建立新的生活以及农场 What was the hardest part
最困难的是哪一个环节呢 for you of establishing a life and a farm here?
最大的问题就是筹钱去买肥料和设备
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那你妻子认为最艰难的是哪一部分呢 What does your wife think was the toughest part?
对我来说最困难的就是挖掘和种植
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尤其是种植 因为当时我们是菜鸟
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完全不知道应该怎么做
我想看一下你的手 让我看下你的手 I want to see the hands, let me see the hands here.
这是干过农活的双手 对吧 All right, these have done some hard work, haven't they?
但是看看这双手 But look at these!
这是真正辛苦劳作过的手 是吧 You're doing the hard work, really, aren't you?
活儿干多了手就变糙了
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在越南战争结束之后 After the end of the Vietnam War,
政府在这里建造了巨大的集体农场 the Communist government started huge collective farms here.
这不是一个成功的举动 They weren't a great success.
集体农场中没有一个人 Nobody on the collective
会满怀热血的去努力工作 farms had much of an incentive to work hard
贿赂也很猖獗 and corruption was rampant.
人们越来越缺食物 People were going hungry
国家在农业上也赚不到钱 and the country wasn't making much money from its crops.
最后政府终于意识到得采取行动了 Eventually the government realised they had to do something.
1986年是至关重要的一年 The crucial year is 1986.
越南共产党在那年召开了重大会议 That's when the Vietnamese Communist Party had a major meeting.
他们发现当时经济状况很糟糕 They realised the economy was in a terrible state
他们决定放宽政策 and they decided to relax the rules and,
除了其他农作物 among other things,
还开始大面积种植和出口咖啡 start growing and exporting coffee on a massive scale.
政府的集体农场被撤销 The state-planned collective farms were swept away.
取而代之的是五十多万个小农场 Half a million smallholdings emerged in their place,
九十年代中 and in the 1990s,
咖啡产量以每年百分之三十的惊人速度增长 coffee production grew at a staggering 30% per year.
你得用力扯
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不要太用力 会折断树枝的
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这样吗 Like that?
你力气太大了
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是的 我力气很大 很强壮 Oh, I am, I'm so strong! So strong!
彭一家是大迁移中的一员 Phuong and his family are part of the massive migration...'
老天爷 Flippin' 'eck!
一百多万人从全国各地 Of more than three million people who've come here
聚集于此 种植咖啡豆和农作物 from other parts of the country to farm coffee and other crops.
今天太阳很好 很适合晒咖啡豆
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这里的设备依旧落后 嘎吱声不断 The equipment here is still low tech and often creaking.
但这样的小农场 But small farms like this
对快速的全国经济增长至关重要 have been crucial to this country's rapid economic growth.
这就是成品了 This is what it's all about.
下一步就是卖给批发商 The next stage from here is to sell this on to a wholesaler.
咖啡 咖啡 遍地都是 Coffee, coffee, it's everywhere here.
看看这附近的社区 You look at the communities around here as well
他们很穷 and, where they're poor, you've got...
你看 比如这两家 Look here for example, electricity,
既通电又有卫星天线 satellite dishes on both houses here.
虽然这个国家仍然很穷 This is a very poor country still,
但二三十年前这里更穷 but it was a lot poorer 20, 30 years ago.
事情在改变 情况在好转 Things are changing, things are improving.
1994年 百分之六十的越南人 In 1994, 60% of Vietnamese
生活在贫困线以下 lived below the poverty line,
现在只有百分之十不到 now it's less than 10%.
我想我们到了 Here we are, I think,
从他们横穿双行道推测的 judging by the way they're crossing this dual carriageway.
九包
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但越南咖啡产业也有自己的问题 But Vietnam's coffee industry has its problems.
小农场出产的咖啡豆往往质量欠佳 Coffee grown on the small farms is often poor quality,
农民有时 farmers occasionally even
甚至往咖啡豆里加石头和螺钉 bulk up the weight of their coffee sacks
来增加整个袋子的重量 by chucking in stones and bolts.
34000越南盾[约人民币10元]
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钱拿好
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谢了
就这样交易完成 And the deal has been done.
这是我今天的薪水吗 Is that my pay for the day?
非常感谢 Thank you very much!
我工作可卖力了 I worked hard for this!
这是卖了294公斤咖啡豆换来的钱 So you've got about 650 pounds here.
咖啡豆每年收获一次
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这只是第一份收入而已
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我的田里还有很多没收获的咖啡
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毕竟是自己赚的 It's yours, after all.
谢谢你让我参与这个过程 And thank you for letting me see this part of the process.
也许你现在喝的就出自彭之手 You might be drinking some of farmer Phuong's coffee by now.
和大多越南农民一样 Like most Vietnamese farmers,
他只种植一种特定的咖啡豆 he grows one specific type of bean
用于制造一种特定的咖啡 to make a specific type of coffee.
事实上基本所有咖啡中 All of this coffee, in fact almost all of the coffee
越南产咖啡称为罗布斯塔 that's produced in Vietnam is a type of coffee called Robusta.
罗布斯塔咖啡十分耐寒 Robusta coffee, it's quite a hardy plant,
但质量也很差 but it's quite a low quality one as well
它用于制作速浓咖啡 and it goes into making instant coffee.
很多其他出产咖啡的国家 A lot of other countries that produce coffee
大量种植阿拉比卡咖啡 churn out Arabica coffee
这种咖啡豆更值钱 which is a more valuable coffee,
用于制作更昂贵的咖啡 it goes to make the more expensive stuff,
比如意式特浓咖啡 things like espressos,
你得在商业街的咖啡店里花大价钱才能喝到 which you can be charged a fortune for in a high street coffee shop.
但在越南 人们生产廉价咖啡 But here in Vietnam, they make the cheap stuff.
速浓咖啡大多用罗布斯塔咖啡豆制造 Instant coffee made largely from Robusta beans
在英国人喝的咖啡中百分之八十都是这种 accounts for nearly 80% of the coffee we drink in Britain.
人们对速溶咖啡的追捧 Our love affair with the instant stuff really took off
始于70到80年代 in the 1970s and '80s.
这才是真正的咖啡 Now that's what I call a cup of coffee.
当然了 这是麦斯威尔的新品 Of course. It's new Maxwell House.
雀巢咖啡是由世界上 That's why Nescafe is made from
最好的三种咖啡豆混合制成的 a blend of three types of the finest coffee beans in the world
并且每杯中都有这么多咖啡豆 and there are about this many beans in every cup.
红山咖啡是冻干速溶咖啡 Red Mountain is freeze dried...
越南共产党的咖啡复兴计划部分源于 Communist Vietnam's coffee boom was partly fed by
80年代英国中产阶级的欲求 the middle-class aspirations of 1980s Britain.
咖啡不错 总之... Mmm, lovely coffee. Anyway...
红山咖啡 不需研磨却有研磨风味 Red Mountain, it's like ground coffee taste without the grind.
速溶咖啡登上超市货架时 When instant coffee landed on supermarket shelves,
全球的咖啡消耗量直线上升 consumption of coffee rocketed around the world.
如今在英国 In Britain we now drink twice
人们喝咖啡的量是70年代的两倍 as much of the stuff as we did in the '70s.
展现咖啡热影响力的最佳地点 One of the best places to see the impact of our coffee boom
是邦美蜀 越南的咖啡之都 is the city of Buon Ma Thuot, Vietnam's coffee capital.
咖啡复兴让这里的一部分人家财万贯 Coffee's made some people here very rich.
羽主席 你居然开宾利 Chairman Vu, you've got a Bentley!
你当然有一辆宾利 你这么有钱 Of course you have a Bentley, you're a rich chap.
你很喜欢车吧 羽主席 You like your cars, Chairman Vu.
当然
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快告诉我们 你到底有哪些车 So, come on, what cars have you got then? Tell us.
10辆法拉利 还有些其他牌子的车
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10辆法拉利 Ten Ferraris?!
那你肯定年年都能赚大钱 So, you had many good years when you look at the finances then?
我有5辆不同款的宾利车
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你有5辆宾利吗 You have five Bentleys?
比起开车 其实我更喜欢飞行于这些窄巷
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所以我正准备买一架直升机
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我的老天爷 Oh, flippin' 'eck!
我必须感谢咖啡树
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我的生意从白手起家
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如今我的公司价值已达十亿美元
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邓黎原羽是越南著名的咖啡王 Dang Le Nguyen Vu is known as Vietnam's Coffee King.
他是最早发掘出咖啡业潜力的人之一 He was one of the first to see the potential of the business.
他的财富来自于 He's made a fortune from
出口咖啡豆到英国之类的国家 exporting beans to countries like Britain,
同时创立自己的国际咖啡连锁店 as well as founding his own international chain of coffee shops.
在吉普车队的护送下 羽主席 Accompanied by an escort of Jeeps, Chairman Vu, as he's known,
带我参观了他的咖啡帝国的一部分 showed me around some of his empire.
天呐 好多随从 Goodness me, it's quite the entourage, isn't it?
他还花几百万英镑建造了一座咖啡村 He's even built a multimillion-pound coffee village,
作为供奉他最爱的咖啡豆的神庙 a shrine to his beloved bean.
我还是个穷学生的时候
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就在此地创办了我的公司
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我开办了一个小工厂
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如今此地成了供奉咖啡的中心地
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在建筑群的中心 陈列着许多展品 At the centre of the complex are some exhibits
体现了羽主席的人生观 highlighting Vu's own very personal philosophy.
什么 What?
看看你这里摆了什么 羽主席 Who have you got here, Chairman Vu,
你为什么把这些人摆在这里呢 and why have you got them here?
这些塑像是我最崇拜的100人 These statues are of my top 100 people.
他们是创造了世界历史的人 People who've shaped the history of the world.
这些人是你所认同的人吗 Are they people you personally identify with
或者说 是你所效仿的人吗 or you would like to be like?
都是 Both.
我想做一个能够改变世界的人 I'd like to be one of the people who changes the world,
但我也吸收了他们所奉行的核心价值 but also I learn from their core values.
比如拿破仑 For instance, Napoleon.
他的军事战略才能是举世无双的 His talent in military strategy is the best in the world,
无人能及 no-one can rival him.
如果你喝咖啡 就能刺激大脑 If you take coffee, it's a stimulant for the brain.
世界上富有国家的人都喝很多咖啡 The rich countries of the world all drink a lot of coffee.
以你的国家为例 Take your own country
一旦人们的爱好从喝咖啡转为喝茶 the moment you shift from drinking coffee to drinking tea,
国家便开始衰落 the country slows down.
这种说法真是太令人震惊了 This is a shocking thing to say!
我们英国人两者都爱 We drink both in Britain.
我们既喜欢喝茶 也喝很多咖啡 We love our tea and we drink quite a lot of coffee as well.
你的意思是 如果我们只喝咖啡 Are you suggesting that if we only drank coffee,
我们的国家会更有创造力吗 we would be a more creative country?
对我来说 咖啡就是宝藏 For me, coffee's a treasure.
它是人类的遗产 Coffee is the heritage of mankind,
也是未来的答案 it's the solution for the future
而且我觉得这样说并不夸张 and I don't think that's an exaggeration.
羽主席拥有宏图大志 Chairman Vu has big plans.
虽然目前在英国 He wants to take Vietnam's coffee,
越南咖啡豆只被用于生产便宜的速溶咖啡 which we in Britain just use for cheaper, instant coffee,
但他想要将越南咖啡本身 and sell it internationally
作为一种得体而昂贵的饮品 as a proper, expensive drink
推销到全世界 in its own right.
不同于传统的味道 但我很喜欢 It's an acquired taste, but I liked it.
味道真的很好 It's really good.
你希望我们喝更多这样的咖啡 是吗 You want us to drink more of this, don't you?
你想尝试将它推销到全世界 You want to try and sell this around the world.
是的 Yes.
我们想让越南的咖啡文化走向全世界 We want to bring Vietnamese coffee culture to the world.
那么你是否计划 So is your plan to try
进军欧洲和北美市场 and expand into Europe, into North America,
我们是否有机会看到羽主席的咖啡店 are we going to see Chairman Vu's coffee shops
在英国开业呢 opening in the UK?
也许会有些困难 但明年 It isn't going to be easy, but in the next year
我们希望能与星巴克这样的大品牌竞争 we want to compete with the big brands like Starbucks.
如果我们能够抢占美国市场 If we can take on and win over the US market,
我们就能征服世界 we can conquer the whole world.
原来计划是这样吗 征服世界 Is that the plan? Conquer the whole world?
那是我的目标 That's my goal.
有250万越南人 Two and a half million people in Vietnam
受雇于咖啡产业 are employed in the coffee industry.
他们种植咖啡 包装咖啡 运输咖啡 They grow it, they pack it, they ship it.
咖啡卖买让他们得以养活家人 Selling you coffee feeds their families
供孩子上学 and helps educate their children.
在越南的许多地区 In many parts of the country,
咖啡种植业是唯一的产业 growing coffee is the only industry,
但问题也日益凸显 but problems are looming.
戴夫·迪赫兹是一位比利时科学家 Dave D'haeze is a Belgian
研究水土保护 soil and water conservation scientist
他长住越南 是咖啡业的专家 living in Vietnam, who's an expert on the coffee industry.
戴夫 目前越南种植咖啡的方法 Dave, is the way that the Vietnamese
是否具有可持续性呢 are farming coffee at the moment sustainable?
我不这么认为 I don't think so.
这个问题很有趣 因为事实上 It's a very interesting question because, actually,
情况不同于世界上其他任何一个项目 different to any other project we do in the world,
我们在别的地方帮助农民增加产量 where we are trying to help farmers to increase productivity,
在这里我们却必须告诉农民 here we have to tell farmers,
请你们减少灌溉量和施肥量 "Please, reduce water amounts, reduce fertiliser amounts
你们的产量 and still your production
仍会居世界首位 will be one of the highest in the world."
所以他们过度使用肥料 So they're over-using fertiliser
过度使用稀缺水源吗 and they're over-using scarce water resources?
绝对是 Absolutely, yes.
为什么 Why?
他们都是根据传统经验来种植咖啡 Well, there is this traditional belief that you need to do that
没有人真正受过如何种植咖啡的训练 and nobody has really been trained on how to produce coffee.
有时我说 Sometimes I'm saying,
看 每一个越南农民 look, every farmer in Vietnam
都是自己农场的研究员 is the researcher of his own plot.
真的吗 几乎没什么信息共享吗 Oh, really, so there's not enough shared information, almost?
他们就走一步看一步 They're making it up as they go along
他们想 我们想要更多的咖啡豆 and they think, "We want more beans,
就再多施点肥吧 it's just put kilograms more of fertiliser on them."
毫无疑问 就是这样 Absolutely, that's how it's going.
农民过度使用水和化肥 Farmers are over-using fertiliser and water
导致现在半数咖啡树的生命走向了终结 and now half of their coffee plants are reaching the end of their life
并且也没有后备方案改种其他作物 and there's no coordinated plan to replant them.
多壮观啊 Now that is a magnificent sight!
真雄壮啊 That is really spectacular!
这些不是咖啡业唯一的威胁 And those aren't the only threats to the coffee industry here.
我们刚被台风袭击过 We've just been hit by a cyclone,
台风席卷了这个国家中部的大片土地 along with a large chunk of the middle of the country,
越南并未预计到会有台风 that Vietnam wasn't really expecting.
戴夫 你觉得 How is climate change going to affect Vietnam
气候变化是怎么影响越南 and how is it going to affect the
怎么影响越南咖啡业的 Vietnamese coffee industry, do you think, Dave?
我最近和个农民聊天的时候 他说 I recently spoke to a farmer and he was saying,
实际上 气候不再像我预期的那样了 "Actually, the climate doesn't meet my expectations any more."
所以气候变得极其不稳定 So the climate is becoming really, really more erratic.
所以天气更加极端 So more extreme weather...
热季更热 旱季更干 hotter hot weather, drier dry weather,
雨季更湿 wetter wet season?
是啊 Absolutely, yeah.
我们实际上面临着 We're actually facing the risk that
咖啡种植业经济效益减少的威胁 coffee farming will become less viable in economic terms,
农户收入减少 so farmers will get less income,
那他们种咖啡还是必需或有意义的吗 and will it still be necessary or valuable to grow coffee?
这是我们现在面对的最大问题 That's the big question we are facing over here.
这里的大部分土地曾被森林覆盖 Much of this area was once covered by forest.
越南想要生产大量 The Vietnamese strategy of producing vast quantities
便宜低质速溶咖啡豆的策略 of cheap, low quality beans for instant coffee
造成了大规模的破坏 has contributed to its wholesale destruction.
这里很多的树都被砍掉了 So much of the forest has already been cleared around here,
但我们前去的是仍处于保护下的 but we're heading to one of the last areas
最后一片净土 that still gets some form of protection.
优屯是越南最大的国家公园 Yok Don is Vietnam's biggest national park
也是南亚最大的野生动物保护区之一 and is one of the largest protected wildlife areas in Southeast Asia.
原始森林几乎已经从越南消失 Primary forest has virtually disappeared in Vietnam.
即世界自然基金会
根据国际环保组织WWF的数据 According to data from global conservation organisation WWF,
越南从1973年后损失了 Vietnam has lost nearly 40,000 square miles
接近103599平方千米的森林 of total forest cover since 1973.
而保卫剩余森林的职责 The battle to preserve what's left
落在了一支公园护林队上 is being fought by a small band of park rangers.
刚发现这些人有冲锋枪 Only just realised the guy there has got an assault rifle.
这是谭先生 This is Mr. Tan here.
-谭先生 -在 - Mr. Tan? - Yeah?
他是公园的副园长 He's the Deputy Director of the park.
除了根据农业和咖啡种植业的需求 As well as the clearing of forests
砍伐森林树木之外 for agriculture and coffee farming,
非法砍伐也是一个主要原因 there's also a major problem here with illegal logging.
西蒙 这个森林通向柬埔寨边界
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这里离柬埔寨边界大约30千米
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-真的吗 整个公园 -是啊 - Really? All park? - Yeah.
我们保护这片美丽净土并不容易
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这里有很多树你能卖很多钱
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这就是当地居民经常
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砍伐树木拿到市场上卖的原因
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相对于农业来说更好挣钱
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他们很穷 And they're poor.
是啊 他们很穷 Yeah, they're poor.
你能看到这艘船 我们确认一下 Yeah, you can see this boat. We can check.
他们要确认一下这艘船 I think they're going to check this boat.
你们去哪儿
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隔壁村
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好吧 OK.
基本上我们每周都要沿着河巡逻一次
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发现非法砍伐者沿河运输木材
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我们就尽力逮捕他们 他们会反抗
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这是场斗争 很危险
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很多次我们的护林员被杀了
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看看这个啊 Let's look at this!
这少见啊 This is such a rare sight now.
森林啊 Forest!
走吧 Let's go.
越南政府 The Vietnamese government
制定了经济快速发展的规划 has a plan for rapid economic development.
他们扩大农业 They're expanding agriculture
着重于矿材开采和水电开发 and investing heavily in mining and hydroelectric power,
给环境带来巨大压力 which put the environment under incredible pressure.
这些人做着十分伟大的工作 These guys really are doing an incredible job.
国家剩余的人都在耗竭其自然资源 The rest of the country is trying to devour its natural resources
他们坚守阵线 保护着仅存的这片森林 and they're holding the line and trying to protect what's left.
这里已是四面楚歌 This place is under siege.
在森林边缘 我们见到了 On the edge of the forest, we came across evidence of
咖啡种植业不断威胁着森林的证据 the ongoing threat from coffee farming.
他需要做点除草的工作 So he needs to do a bit of weeding.
这是你的土地吗 还是属于公园的 Is this your land, or are you in the park here?
不 这是属于我家族的土地
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你为什么选择种咖啡呢 And why grow coffee here?
为什么是咖啡 而不是其它农作物呢 Why coffee, rather than any other crop?
咖啡更值钱
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一小堆咖啡的价值等同于十吨玉米
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天哪 Goodness me.
这是一个很复杂的情况 This is a complicated situation, you know.
这位老兄是否在国家公园内耕种 It's a little bit unclear whether this chap
我们还不太清楚 is inside the national park or not,
但国家公园包括了 but the national park is
那边 那边 还有那边 that-a-way and that-a-way and that-a-way.
他很可能是 He might be.
护林人告诉我们在公园里的其它地方 The rangers have told us that elsewhere around here,
农庄在一点一点蚕食公园的边界 farms are nibbling away at the edges of the park.
护林人很难制止这种行为 It's very hard for them to stop,
甚至有几次我们聊天的时候 他们会说 and a couple of times when we've talked about it, they've said,
你也知道的 这些人实在太穷了 "Well, you know, these people are really poor,"
显然他们对这些人怀有很大的同情 and obviously they feel a huge amount of sympathy for them.
我是说 听听这家伙的说法 I mean, look at this guy saying,
没错 我种咖啡能赚更多钱 "Yeah, I make more money from coffee
比做别的都赚钱 "than I do from anything else."
但看看他住的地方 But look where he lives.
他不是什么有钱的咖啡巨头 He's not some wealthy coffee baron.
他只是勉强维生 He's just surviving.
我们通常把大公司和工业产业假想为 We often imagine that large companies and industry is
破坏和损毁大自然的罪魁祸首 primarily responsible for damaging or destroying the natural world.
但全世界的国家公园和荒野地区 But national parks and wilderness areas around the globe
同时还遭受到数百万贫困村民农夫的破坏 are also under attack like this from hundreds of millions
他们做的不过是开垦了一小片土地 of poor villagers and farmers, who clear a small area of land,
种了点庄稼 养了几头牛 grow a few crops and raise a few cattle.
他们只是想要提高生活标准 They want to raise their living standards,
或者仅仅是为了喂饱一家人 or often are just trying to feed their families.
越南森林遭受到的破坏 The destruction of Vietnam's forests,
通常是为了种植我们所喝的咖啡 often to grow our coffee,
这也威胁到无数动物的生死存亡 threatens the survival of countless animal species,
包括地球上最具代表性的一些生物 including some of the most iconic creatures on earth.
你好[越南语] Xin chao.
我的大象叫做布坎
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布坎 Bunh Cam.
你呢 And you?
木
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木 Muk.
这些大象是经过驯养的 These elephants are domesticated,
受到训练师 也被称作象夫的精心照顾 cared for by their trainers, known as mahouts.
它们的野生同胞几乎从此地消失了 Their wild cousins have almost completely disappeared here.
木 为什么大象的数量会急剧下降 Muk, why has the number of elephants fallen so dramatically then?
因为野生大象没有栖息地了
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它们喜欢生活在茂密的深林中
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它们不喜欢栖息在人们经常去砍树的地方
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象群一直在迁徙 族群之间没有交流
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没有足够的食物令它们长得健壮以进行交配
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所以大象的数量不断下降
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越南战争结束之时 At the end of the Vietnam war
越南还有超过两千头野生大象 there were up to 2,000 wild elephants in Vietnam.
现在残存的只有十几头 There's now just a few dozen left.
失去栖息地 包括被咖啡农庄侵占 Loss of their habitat, including for coffee farms,
是野生大象们面临的最主要的问题 is one of the biggest problems facing them,
这意味着保护大象的任务迫在眉睫 which means it's incredibly important that it's protected.
这场由开垦森林造成的环境灾难 Elephants are just one victim of the environmental catastrophe
其受害者不仅仅只有大象 caused by the clearance of Vietnam's forests.
爪哇犀牛在越南已经被认定灭绝 The Javan rhinoceros was declared extinct here recently
整个越南现存老虎数量不足三十头 and there are no more than 30 tigers left in the entire country.
越南政府却没什么作为 The Vietnamese government's not doing much
一些保护组织也彻底放弃 and some conservation groups are actually giving up hope
保护越南现存濒危野生动物的希望 of protecting Vietnam's remaining endangered wildlife.
这真值得一看 Now here's a sight.
木一家靠向游客提供骑乘大象 Muk and his family now survive on the money they earn
所赚取的费用维持生计 from providing elephant rides to tourists.
你一般把大象带回家吗 Do you normally bring your ellie home with you?
今天有一个为她祈祷健康的仪式
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为她祈祷健康吗 Bless her health?
太棒了 我们能看看吗 Oh, fantastic. Can we watch? Can we see it?
这是向象神祈祷保佑她一切平安
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希望她像流水一样强壮 一辈子病痛无忧
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我们特别感激她
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我们能有房子 有幸福都是多亏了她
她就像我的孩子一样
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她对我们来说非常宝贵
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不仅仅是越南的环境和野生动物们 It's not only the environment and wildlife that suffered
受到越南咖啡热潮的冲击 during Vietnam's great rush for coffee.
木一家属于越南的 Muk and his family are part
一支少数民族 埃地族 of an ethnic grouping called the Ede people,
是越南五十个少数民族中的一支 one of around 50 minority groups in Vietnam
占越南总人口的15% who make up almost 15% of the population.
他们与越南人口最多的民族 They're distinguished from the
京族在宗教和文化遗产上有很大的不同 majority Kinh people by religion and heritage.
有一部分人是基督徒 Some are Christians and
有一部分人在越南战争时站在美国这一边 some sided with the US during the Vietnam war.
至此之后 Ever since,
他们一直受到越南政府的猜疑和敌视 they've been treated with suspicion and hostility by the Vietnamese government.
数以百万的京族人来这里种咖啡时 Many hill tribes were forced off their farmland when
很多山地部落被从自己的农田赶走 the majority Kinh people arrived in their millions to grow coffee.
有很多暴力抗议发生 There have been violent protests
部落人认为这是在侵占他们的土地 against what many tribal people have seen as a land grab.
据称这段未经证实的录像展示的是 This unverified footage is thought
抗议和政府镇压的情景 to show protests and a government crackdown.
我们得知数百名 We know that hundreds of
少数民族激进分子被逮捕 ethnic minority activists have been arrested
并因参加为部落争取权利的运动而入狱 and imprisoned for campaigning for rights for their people.
这里的少数民族的确经历了很困难的时期 Ethnic minorities here have really had a tough time of it.
任何关于少数民族权利的讨论 Any discussion of ethnic minority rights
在这里是非常有争议的 is extremely controversial here.
如果我开始问人们 If I was to start asking people questions
关于少数民族现状的问题 about the ethnic minority situation,
我会让他们处境危险 I would be putting them in danger.
为了了解更多 我需要离开越南 So, to find out more, I need to leave the country.
我飞往数百公里外 I flew to Bangkok,
泰国的首都 曼谷 the capital of Thailand, several hundred miles away.
数千名越南少数民族 Thousands of people from Vietnam's ethnic minorities
逃离自己的国家在国外过着流亡生活 have fled the country to live in exile abroad.
我们尝试安排 We managed to arrange a meeting with
与两个据称在越南迫害下逃亡的人会面 two men who say they've escaped persecution in Vietnam.
为了保护他们 他们的身份被隐藏 Their identities have been concealed to protect them.
你能向我们描述一下 Can you describe to us what
在越南的少数民族地区 happened in ethnic minority areas in Vietnam
从其它地区来的数百万农民 as millions of farmers
开始向少数民族地区迁移的情况吗 from other regions started moving in there?
他们夺走我们的土地去建大型的国家开发区 They took our lands away to build a huge state development.
没有土地我们就没法生存 Without land, we had no way to earn a living.
去年十月我亲眼看到 Last October I saw it with my own eyes,
数百名警察和士兵 hundreds of police and soldiers came
把我们的咖啡树连根拔起 and they uprooted all our coffee plants.
他们说土地现在归政府所有 They said the land now belonged to the authorities.
全村人出动也没能阻挡他们 Not even the whole village could stop them.
他们殴打我们 They beat us.
我侄子被打得不省人事 My nephew was beaten unconscious,
我们无法阻挡他们 it was impossible to stop them.
政府没收了土地 The government confiscated the land.
他们来毁掉我们的咖啡园 我们必须反抗 When they came and uprooted our coffee, we had to fight back.
因此他们殴打折磨我们 For that they beat and tortured our people.
这不公平 It was unfair because that
因为土地是我们的祖先传下来的 land was passed down to us by our ancestors.
当局对异议严厉打压 The regime has clamped down hard on signs of dissent.
因为发传单他们逮捕了我 They arrested me for handing out leaflets.
传单里号召越南的年轻人来保卫人权 Leaflets asking young people to come and defend human rights
还有自由 and freedom in Vietnam.
他们说 你好大胆子啊 They said, "How dare you?"
然后六个人就开始打我的头 and six of them started beating me around the head.
他们把我打得不省人事 其它我就记不清了 They beat me unconscious and I can't remember anything else.
现在我的头上还有伤疤 There are still marks on my head.
之后他们把我扔进一个停尸房 After that, they threw me into a morgue.
我醒来后他们就继续审问我 When I came round, they carried on interrogating me.
这个人说他被关押在监狱六个月 This man says he was held in prison for six months.
释放后他就逃离了越南 When he was released, he fled the country.
你害怕越南政府吗 Are you frightened of the Vietnamese government?
你觉得你还能回家吗 Do you think you'll ever be able to go home?
我们不能回去 We can't return.
我们害怕是因为他们已经逮捕过 We're afraid because they have arrested us,
审讯折磨过我们 interrogated and tortured us.
我们怎么能再回到越南 How can we go back to Vietnam?
如果你们回去会怎么样 What would happen to you if you returned home?
我会被关进监狱直到死掉 I would be put in prison until I die.
你确定吗 You're certain of that?
是的 确定 Yes, I am.
我们很恐惧是因为 We're scared because the Vietnamese
越南政府跟其他政府不一样 government is different from other governments.
一旦一个人 被定了罪 Once someone is charged with a crime
要进监狱关起来 they are imprisoned, locked up.
政府会想尽一切办法 The government uses any means
确保他们一辈子都出不了狱 to make sure they stay in jail for ever.
为什么他们要把你关起来 And why would they imprison you?
根据什么 什么罪名 On what grounds and for what crimes?
反对他们是一种犯罪行为 所以逮捕我们 Opposing them is an offence, that's why they arrest us.
国际组织 人权观察组织 The international group Human Rights Watch
曾报告过越南严峻的人权状况 has described Vietnam's human rights record as atrocious
并称情况还在恶化 and says conditions there are getting worse.
这里有着普遍的新闻审查制度 There is widespread press censorship
并且在全国范围内 and across the country
质疑或者挑战政权的人 people who question or challenge the regime
会面临骚扰 牢狱以及折磨 face harassment, jail and torture.
在我看来 越南并没有得到应有的关注 It seems clear to me that Vietnam does not get the attention
坦白来说 越南理应由于其人权问题 that it deserves and would be warranted, frankly, for the scale of human rights issues
以及人身迫害而受到警告 and abuses that are happening there.
我认为 至少是在开始这趟旅行前认为 I have a view, or at least i had a view before starting this journey,
越南虽然很穷 of Vietnam as being a poor
但是一个很友好且热情的国家 but fairly friendly and welcoming country
是背包客的理想旅行目的地 which was an ideal place for a backpacker holiday.
我不是在说它现在不是理想旅行地 I'm not suggesting it's not,
但我觉得也得看一下这里的政治方面 but I think you've got to see the political aspect as well
还有这里发生的对人权侵害的事件 and the scale of the abuses that are happening there and that are
而这些大都隐藏在 largely hidden from
国际观点和国际社会的关注之后 international view and international attention.
咖啡之路的最后我来到越南南部 The end of the coffee trail took me to the south of Vietnam.
胡志明市 以前叫做西贡 Ho Chi Minh City, which used to be called Saigon,
这里是越南最大最现代的城市 is Vietnam's biggest and most modern city.
越南大部分咖啡豆的目的地就在附近 Nearby is the destination for many of Vietnam's coffee beans,
一座雀巢的工厂和仓库 a Nestle factory and warehouse.
这地方真大 Wow, this place is huge.
雀巢是是全球最大的食品公司 Nestle's the world's largest food company.
它为英国提供了超过半数的速溶咖啡 It supplies the UK with more than half our instant coffee.
这里的经理是奈克雷·克坦 Their manager here is Nakle Kattan.
这些咖啡产自我们叫做"内陆"的地方 This coffee is coming from what we call upcountry.
在越南 一大部分收获的咖啡豆 A large proportion of Vietnam's coffee bean harvest
最终都进了雀巢的仓库 ends up in Nestle's warehouses.
事实上 少数几家跨国巨头 In fact, just a few giant multinational companies
垄断了全球的速溶咖啡产业 dominate the global instant coffee industry.
这里便是雀巢公司将咖啡豆 Here it's Nestle that makes
变成雀巢咖啡并获取巨额利润的地方 big profits by turning the beans into Nescafe.
去石机1号
加工的第一道工序是筛出杂质 The process begins by filtering out the impurities.
这对我来说就是一堆大管子 It's a mass of piping that to me,
看不出什么特别的地方 of course, means absolutely nothing,
当然 但对政府来说 but to the governor here,
这里是一切努力的最终目的 there's a purpose to everything, of course.
此后咖啡豆在一个巨大的装置中被烘烤 'After that, the beans are then roasted in a huge drum.'
没错 这就是你刚才看到的咖啡豆 Yeah, this is the coffee that you've just seen before,
它们通过烘烤机 it came through the roaster
被烘烤完毕后 被送往萃取区 and now it is roasted and going to the extraction.
这样 萃取过程是个秘密对吧 Right, and the extraction bit is the secret bit?
是的 在萃取过程中 Yeah. In the extractions,
我们首先要萃取出咖啡颗粒 we extract first the solid,
但同时还有它的香气 but also this aroma, you know,
就是你一打开雀巢咖啡罐时闻到的香味 of Nescafe, when you open your jar.
但这是你们流程中保密的一步 But that's the secret bit
我们也无法亲眼见到对吧 of your process that we can't see, isn't it?
雀巢咖啡的配方是一个被严守的机密 The Nescafe formula is a closely guarded secret
并且它获利颇丰 and it's hugely lucrative.
每年的速溶咖啡产业价值数十亿 The instant coffee industry is worth billions every year,
但利润仅有极少部分留在了越南本土 but very little of that profit stays in the country,
这对越南是不利的 which isn't great for Vietnam.
尽管越南是全球最大的咖啡豆生产国之一 Although Vietnam is one of the world's biggest coffee producers,
但好像没什么人知道这一点 nobody seems to know about it.
当你仔细想想 When you think about it,
有谁特别要求过喝一杯越南咖啡吗 whoever asks for a cup of Vietnamese coffee?
星巴克 即使是在越南的星巴克 Starbucks, even Starbucks here in Vietnam,
也并未像推销产自他国的咖啡那样 doesn't actually promote and market coffee from Vietnam
推广和销售越南的咖啡 the way it does coffee from other coffee-producing countries.
这对越南也是不利的 Again, not great for Vietnam.
威尔·福瑞斯是一位越南裔美国咖啡顾问 Will Frith is a Vietnamese-American coffee consultant
他搬到这里以参与到越南的咖啡产业中去 who's moved here to get involved in the national coffee industry.
全球大型的咖啡连锁店看上去并未 The big global coffee chains don't seem to promote
像推广其他咖啡种植国的咖啡一样 and market Vietnamese coffee the way they do
推广并销售越南的咖啡 coffee from other coffee-producing countries.
-对 -这是为什么呢 - Right. - What's going on?
对于这里的咖啡产业来说 In terms of the coffee industry here,
人们只求产量 they're aiming for quantity,
所以质量就必然会下降 which necessarily drives the quality down.
威尔想鼓励越南农民从种植 Will wants to encourage Vietnamese farmers to switch from growing
低品质速溶咖啡转向种植有更高附加值的 low quality instant coffee to planting the more valuable beans
可制作卡布奇诺和意式浓缩咖啡的品种 that go into expensive cappuccinos and espressos.
他认为这个国家别无选择 He thinks the country has no choice.
如果他们不这么做 恐怕 If they don't, I'm afraid that
有许多迹象都正在指向全盘皆输 a lot of the signs are pointing towards complete failure.
一个产业的全然溃败真的可能吗 Is complete failure of the industry actually a possibility?
是的 Yes.
各种生产条件都在恶化 We're entering sort of a perfect storm of conditions right now
种植单一作物使土地变得贫瘠 where the soil is being sucked dry by monoculture.
那么土地已经基本上耗尽养分了 So, the soil is basically becoming exhausted, knackered almost,
它的养分都已经被吸收了 it's having the goodness sucked out of it.
没错 而考虑到气候的变化 Absolutely, and to compound the problem
问题变得更复杂了 there's climate change to think about.
我曾看到过一些灾害气候的数字模拟 And I've actually seen some models
过半的种植区都将夷为平地 that essentially wipes out more than half of the growing regions here.
这对当地农民来说很可怕的 And that would just be horrific for farmers here.
可能是毁灭性的 It would be devastating.
这不仅对农民来说如此 It would be devastating for more than just farmers,
还有加工者 贸易者 you've got processors and traders
以及那些直接依赖咖啡产业维生的人们 and people whose livelihoods depend directly on the coffee industry.
次日 我来到了越南最大的港口 The next day, I headed to the country's biggest port.
无数吨咖啡从这里离开越南 Thousands of tonnes of coffee leave Vietnam from here
漂洋过海去往欧美 and heads off across the sea to Europe and America.
我已经到了咖啡之路的尽头 I've come to the end of the coffee trail.
显而易见 这个国家在过去的几十年里 Clearly, this country has come a long way economically
在经济方面取得了长足的进步 in the last few decades,
但他们还有更多的路要走 but they have got a lot further to go.
他们需要让经济结构更加多样化 They've got to diversify their economy,
他们得改变大量生产 they've got to move on from producing massive quantities
单一的低品质廉价咖啡的现状 of one type of low quality, low value coffee.
此刻 这种情况对我们有利 At the moment, the situation's quite good for us because
因为我们能喝到便宜的咖啡 we get a cheap cup of coffee,
但这对越南的环境是不利的 but it's not so good for the environment here in Vietnam,
而且长此以往 and actually in the long term it's not
这对越南农民来说也没有好处 that great for Vietnam's farmers either.
我们手中的一小杯咖啡 Our humble cup of instant coffee is
与越南的一些最突出的政治和人权问题息息相关 linked to some of Vietnam's greatest political problems and human rights abuses.
但咖啡也成就了今天的越南 But it's also helped to create modern Vietnam,
为无数人提供了工作机会 providing jobs for huge numbers of people
并让越南从战后的废墟上崛起 and helping to lift this country from the ashes of war.