在歌舞伎中，武士砍殺一個人後
他會用紙張優雅擦過他的武士刀
在我祖父為作壽司而殺魚時
他就會想到歌舞伎的這個部分
開始擦起他的刀子來
當大家說我的工作是件藝術時，我就非常引以為傲
然而我所想的並不是藝術，而是如何把工作的美表現出來
藉由經年的工作經驗所養成的
我是壽司幸餐廳第四代傳人，創立於1885年
我們是非常傳統的壽司餐廳之一
日常工作中，我想大師的技藝和藝術家的優雅是不同的
我儘量不作多餘的動作
這些看起來相同但用途不同的刀子
差別在於鋼的硬度
較軟的鋼做成的刀子比較容易磨利，較硬的鋼做成的刀子磨利比較難，
大約在八十年前，我們在東京開張
從我們開始從事刀匠已經超過四百年了
嗯，碳鋼本身的品質就很重要，但淬煉和鍛煉更是關鍵
除非能把這兩件事情做好，否則是做不成好刀劍的
用傳統的方式來製造刀子的師傅愈來愈少見了
如果沒人再繼續這項傳統，我們這個部分的文化就會永遠消失
當學徒的前三年，就是端盤子、洗盤子...等等
要花兩年的時間來學習準備米飯的工作
就壽司來說，把魚和飯放在一起
飯和魚一樣重要
一間餐廳的成功，非常關鍵的是米飯的準備
再過一年半的時間，他們開始使用刀子，一開始是先用來切蔬菜
如果你無法使用刀子，那就不能處理魚的工作
兩到三年間，他們才可以處理魚的工作
進入第五年的學徒，會在廚房裏幫資深的師傅
做壽司卷和把大盤送給客人
到了第七年，他可以自己服務客人以及和客人聊天
用奉承和笑話來娛樂他們
從我開始築地市場買食材已經有三十五年了
我們和那裏的攤販交易已經超過一百年了
在壽司界裏有很多行話
Gari（生薑）是因為當咬它時的聲音就像gari才這樣叫它的
我們把醬油叫作murasaki（紫色）而不是shoyu
因為在江戶時代的人看它的顏色是紫色的
二百年前的衛生情況是很糟糕的
沒有冰箱，乾淨的水很少
為了避免食物中毒，我們用芥末來殺菌
芥末可以在一瞬間就殺死大腸桿菌和細菌
當人們想到壽司，就一定會想到鮪魚
鮪魚是很好吃的生魚片，現在流行吃maguro生魚片
就某個層面來說，我認為鮪魚是生魚片之王
這就是為什麼人們喜歡吃
把米飯、鮪魚和醬油合在一起吃的發展
最先是從東京風行起來，再傳到日本其他的地方
然後再傳到世界各地去的
在歐洲和美洲，當大家談到壽司是從那來的
他們都會說是從築地市場，而不是日本
我們從1950年開始創業，所以已經有六十年了
從我加入到現在已經有五十四年了，我是第二代
中間批發商有三件重要的工作：首先，我們要很有技巧來評估魚的價值
其次，要很有技巧把整尾鮪魚切下來
第三、要維持魚的食用安全性，這是攸關信用的問題
地板上有很多魚，我要好好評估一下，這是我最喜歡做的事
對相同的魚，今天的價格和明天的價格可能會不同
我每十七秒要評估一尾鮪魚
作為一位外科醫生，我用刀
作為一位內科醫生，我用手電筒來檢查鮪魚的氧化程度
並且利用指壓來確定魚肉的鬆緊的新鮮程度
檢查魚是怎麼被抓的，用釣還是用網的？從哪捕獲的
基本上我會正式排起來，按種類的順序 I can basically official line up in of order species.
在前面你可以看到北方藍鰭鮪， You have nothern bluefins at the front here,
南方藍鰭鮪在後面 southern bluefins behind.
然後是大目鮪，在最後面的地方，你偶爾會看見黃鰭鮪 Then, you'll have bigeye tuna, and in the very back, you'll have yellowfin on occasion.
魚從各地，日本和世界其他地方來的 Fish are from all over, Japan and the rest of the world.
我們也有一些義大利的產品在另外一邊 We have some Italian product over on the other side there.
我們也有一些國內捕獲的北方藍鰭鮪 We have some domestically caught northern bluefin.
它們全被數來拍賣 They're all numbered for aution
所以，他們會一路過關斬將把每一尾魚都拍賣出去！ So, they'll run from one all the way through down and auction every single fish off.
他們通常會把較好的魚排在前面 They generally arrange the better fish first.
所以，較好的魚比次等魚的號碼要高 So, the better fish are higher up in numbers than the lower-grade fish.
所以，他們會做些等級，做些分類 So, they do some grading, and they do some sorting.
這些都是中間批發商 These are all wholesalers.
他們是中間批發商 They're intermediate wholesalers.
他們有證件可以在這個拍賣場上買入 They have a license to buy on the auciton here.
實質上，他們要進場 Essentially, they've come in.
他們要執行指令，為雙方確認要找的魚 They've got orders to fill, and they're looking at the fish for both its confirmation.
他們看著油脂的分布，看著色彩 They're looking at the fat content, and they're looking at the color.
然後他們想著顧客的要求，他們可能會付的價格， And then they'll think about what their customer requires, what they're likely to pay,
然後才開始下標 and then bid accordingly.
你可能要把過程拍下來 You might want to film this.
他只從尾巴取一點點出來 He's just taking a piece out of the tail.
好了，他正要感覺手上的油脂分布 Well, he's gonna feel the oil content in his hands.
他會用手把樣品加溫，那會使得顏色發生改變 He'll warm up the meat sample, and that will bring on color change.
他用燈光來仔細檢查 He uses light to examine it.
我們的事業已經經營了兩百五十年，我是第七代
我們只作鮪魚的生意
我們百分之九十五的鮪魚進到壽司店和高檔的餐廳
我們把鮪魚送到香港、關島、賽班島、澳洲和其他國家
這麼多
我買的鮪魚大部分來自美國、加拿大、墨西哥。南美洲、
澳洲和紐西蘭。印尼、密克羅西尼亞、菲律賓、台灣、中國
到了築地市場的鮪魚，可以拍賣到最好的價格
而且美國的餐廳只買他們需要的鮪魚
從鮪魚身上切下來的可以分成很多個部分，有toro、akami和其他好吃的地方
看看全世界，在中國、俄羅斯、巴西，人們吃掉愈來愈多的魚
需求量在增加而且
將來的需求量一定更大
事實上，世界各地開始欣賞日本人所欣賞的東西 The thing is the rest of the world is starting to appreciate what the Japanese apprecitat,
而且正在發展出自己的口味 and they're developing a taste for it.
好，拉起來 OK! Roll it up.
這些動物開始引起我的興趣的，首先是它們的生理構造 What started my interest in these animals first of all was their physiology.
完全為了速度而打造的 It's all built for speed.
鮪魚的造型是人類所知最流線型的形狀 The actual form of the tuna is the most hydrodynamic form known to man.
他們是短跑選手，但也是馬拉松選手 They're sprinters, but they're also marathon runners.
它們是兩者混合體 They're a combination.
他們迴游數千英哩，但也可以用非常快的速度前進 They migrate for thousands of miles, but they also can swim at very, very fast speeds.
我們習慣上稱呼藍鰭鮪是海洋中的保時捷，因為和保持捷一樣快 We used to call the bluefin tuna the porche of oceans, because it's as fast as a porche.
它們和保時捷一樣大 They're as big as a porche.
它們可以長到一千五百磅 They get up to 1,500 pounds.
而且也和保時捷一樣貴，因為一尾要價美金一萬元以上 And it's as expensive as a porche because one fish goes for more than $100,000 U.S. dollars.
全球至少有三種不同種類的藍鰭鮪魚 There are at least three different kinds of bluefin tuna globally.
有太平洋藍鰭鮪、南方藍鰭鮪和大西洋藍鰭鮪， There's the Pacific bluefin, the southern bluefin,and the Atlantic bluefin,
而且它們頻臨絕種 －數量上的滅絕 and they're quite distinct - quite distinct populations.
它們在不同的地方繁殖 They breed in different places.
魚類有不同的大小 The fish are of different size.
我們已經知道像南方藍鰭鮪 We've learned that tuna such as the southern bluefin tuna
會從澳洲的南部海灣一路到非洲南部 go from the south Australia bight all the way over to south Africa
然後像小時候再游回去 and back as youngsters.
再來，到了壯年期，它們會從澳洲西岸到產卵地爪哇 And then, later in life, they go up the coast of western Australia to Java, where they spawn.
對北方藍鰭鮪而言，它們會橫越整個太平洋， In the case of the northern bluefin tuna, they'll cross the entire Pacific,
從日本到墨西哥，會在加洲海灣和墨西哥灣待上三到四年， from Japan to Mexico, live off the California caost and Mexican coast for three to four years,
然後它們會再回到產卵地 and then they'll go back to their spawning grounds.
所以它們的一生都是在世界各大洋中迴游， So their life is one of wandering the world's oceans,
每天進食，不斷長大 growing by feeding every day,
要花許多年才會長成我們所謂的巨大的藍鰭鮪魚 and taking many years to get to be what we call a giant bluefin tuna.
它們實際上有個可以把鰭收起來的凹槽， They actually have slots where their fins will slot in,
像你所看到那裏的凹槽 as you can see in the grooves there.
收起來可以完全平滑 And it's perfectly smooth.
背鰭在這裏也有道凹槽，可以直接伸縮進出 The dorsal fin has has a slot here and then comes straight out.
所以，它們可以讓自己變成完全的流線型 So, they can make themselves completely steamlined.
在頂部有深色的皮膚， They have the dark skin on the top,
所以，由上面向下看時，它是深色的，就像黝黑的洋底 so when fish are looking donw on them, it's dark, like the dark ocean.
所以，它可以避免被捕，同時也利用捕食 So, it masks them from predators and prey.
然後它們在這裏也有明亮的皮膚， And then they have the light skin here,
所以向上看時，陽光向下照下來 so when fish are looking up, the sun's coming down.
不容易看得到 It's not easy to see.
它們真正是演化樹上最頂端的位置 They are the top of the evolutionary tree, really.
它們和其他最頂尖的魚類有相同的地位 They right up there with other supreme species of fish.
在築地市場這裏最大的改變是在1971年
海外的鮪魚第一次由空運運來
大量的國外鮪魚湧進築地，我很震驚
大學畢業我就直接進到日本航空工作
同一年，日本航空開始國外航線
那個時候，航空貨運的價格很貴，很少公司會用到
很多貨品從日本或香港飛往美國
我們的飛機幾乎都是滿的
但飛回日本的貨機都是空的
我們必須找到可以運回日本的東西
然後我們想到魚，那一種魚最貴最值得投資
愈貴的魚，愈容易創造利潤
結果是魁蛤、海膽和鮪魚會是最好輸出的海產品項
剛開始的時候，做了許多實驗性的裝運來發現和降低 In the beginning, many experimental shipments were made to discover and eliminate
關於運載新鮮鮪魚本來就會有的問題， the inherent problems involved in shipping fresh tuna,
之前從未在轉運到世界各地的中途，會利用空運的一項商品 an item never before transported halfway around the world by air.
我們嚐試過很多東西，就是沒有考慮到傳統的方式
乾冰常用在海外運來的容器裏，
但會讓魚變黑，所以我們就放棄乾冰
我們必須開發裝運鮪魚的新容器
經過三年持續不斷的測試是必須的，關於冷卻控電系統的容器 Three years of constant testing were necessary to involve a cooling-panel-system container
不但夠輕，而且也能維持鮪魚在新鮮的狀態， that was not only light enough but would keep tuna in a fresh condition,
溫度在完美的華氏三十二度，持續四十個小時 at a perfect 32 degreees Fahrenheit for a period of 40 hours.
我們在1971年空運第一批商用的鮪魚到日本
我無法想像這會成為
世界各地流行壽司的開端
我們開始創業時，第一次運載到美國的量是220磅
現在，一張大的訂單就要三、四噸
在美國，很多壽司師傅都沒辦法拿到高品質的魚
但只要有貨，他們都要
一旦他們開始用高檔的魚貨，顧客就會回流
這就是業績蓬勃發展的原因
運魚貨到比較小的城市，每週一、兩次，但到紐約，每天都要運一次
一週有三次來自築地，有四次來自福岡
空運魚貨隔天就會到美國，後天就可以送到餐廳
所以我要設法顧好魚的品質，可以經得起長途的運送
九十年代早期，全球壽司的經濟規模，沒有像現在這麼大 In the early '90s, the global sushi economy, as such, wasn't as large as it is now.
隨著中國的崛起、俄羅斯跟進，甚至印度也是 With China coming on and Russia coming on and even in India.
我剛從印度回來， I've just come back from India,
現在你可以在印度的高級飯店的壽司店吃到壽司 and you can get sushi in sushi restaurants in India now in the top hotels.
幾年前，誰可以想得到？ Who could have thought that a few yars ago?
就像幾年前，你在世界各地都可以找到中國餐館一樣 Just like a few years ago, you could find a Chinese restaurant in any country in the world,
而現在，你可以在各世界地看得到壽司店 and now you're starting to find sushi restaurants in any country in the world.
四年前我在羅茲開了東京壽司吧
之前我在這裏開的是批薩店
一般的波蘭人會吃壽司是因為壽司是健康的料理，其他人則是因為新鮮感
我們最受歡迎的壽司是帶有甜甜的風味
所以我們有密秘的甜醫，顧客非常喜歡
鰻魚、鮭魚配杏仁沾甜醬吃，非常受歡迎
我的刀子是日本製的
以前我在這裏用的刀子不是日本的
所以很容易就鈍掉了
教我的同事沒有一位是從亞洲來的
他們是從之前在這裏工作的日本人那學來的，然後他們再教我
有一天早上我睡醒，那時我和我女朋友住在一起， I woke up one morning, and I was living with my girlfriend,
而且她告訴我，"如果你再不去找工作，你就不能再住在這裏， and she said, "Look! If you don't get a job, you can't live here anymore,
我們就要分手了！" and we're breaking up."
所以，出於恐慌，我搭公車，到市區，在市區繞來繞去 And so, out of a panic, I took the bus, went downtown, walked around downtown,
投了二、三十份履歷，只有一個地方有回音，就是京都日本餐廳 put in about 20 or 30 applications, and the only place that called me back was Kyoto Japanese restaurant.
我從前吃過一次壽司 I had sushi once before.
我覺得很噁心 I thought it was disgusting.
實際上我只是想要做洗碗工的工作 And it was literally just about getting job as a dishwasher.
我從來都沒有吃過像那樣的食物 I never has any food like that before.
我在美國中部長大的，吃的是白人的食物 I grew up in middle America - white-people food.
因此我真的開始愛上這種料理 And so I really started falling in love with the cuisine
然後再開始和餐廳的員工出去玩，尤其是和壽司師傅出去玩 and then started hanging out with the staff, the chefs - the sushi chefs, specifically.
一旦我看他們做的工作，我就很想要做那種工作 Once I saw them making it, I was passionate about wanting to do that.
對他們而言，這裏有個不是日本人的本地人， To them, having some one from here, who's not Japanese,
站在前台來代表他們和他們的餐廳 ,門都沒有 being in the forefront represen ting them and their restaurant,wasn't even an option.
因為我是歐裔美國人，我是白種人 'cause I was Anglo, 'cause I was white.
就是那個從前在錄影帶裏看過"日本鐵腕主廚"節目的傢伙， This is a guy who used to watch "iron chef Japan" on VHS,
當時他是個日本餐廳的洗碗工 when he started out as a dishwasher in a Japanese restaurant.
現在他正在節目中挑戰他最喜愛的主廚，竟敢做大夢！ And now he is battling his favorite chef from the show, dare to dream!
有很多是自學的 A lot of it was self-taught.
在那個節骨眼上，他們沒有教我很多 They didn't teach me a lot at that point.
到處都有好點子，但我要設法自己學怎麼捲壽司 A few pointers here and there, but I was trying to teach myself how to make rolls.
到了休息時間， And whenever there would be down time,
我就會到前台，只是在那裏玩玩，試著在前面做出壽司捲 I would go out to the front and just kind of play around out there and make sushi rolls in the front,
眼裏閃都光芒，希望我也可以在那裏的那種光芒 kind of stars in my eyes, wish-I-could-be-out-there kind of thing.
要灑上這個和一點點西瓜放在這邊 Gonna toss this with a little bit of the watermelon on the side.
我有種想把uchi食物定義成我的食物， I've kind of defined uchi food as my food,
而我的食物是真正的日本美學， and my food stays true to the Japanese aesthetic
而不是傳統的日本那一套 but not traditional Japanese.
所以，使用新的技巧， So, applying new technigues,
新的食材， new ingredients,
新的風格， new styles,
重新詮釋和怎麼把全部整合起來 and making sense of them and how they go together.
壽司阿哥哥在2009年7月開張
這是非常美國化的壽司
壽司原來就是街頭食物
我想可能是在兩百年前，從東京開始的
天婦羅、鰻魚壽司、蒲燒
都是從街頭食物
長牛角卷，我用肋眼牛排、奶油起司和酪梨
放點青醫，加點墨西哥辣椒和胡荽葉的口味
我想這是很不錯的組合，德州人很喜歡
這是德州捲都在你身邊 This is a Texan roll with you anyplace.
好，謝謝！ OK, thank you.
好的，謝謝！再見！ All right, thinks. Bye-bye.
今晚勝利！ Victory tonight!
教練跟我說，"妳在幹嘛？這是德州足球！" Well, coaches have asked me, "what do you think you're doing? This is Texas football!"
我像這樣說，"我正在吃壽司" And I'm like, "I'm serving sushi."
他們說，"什麼？" And they're going, "what?!"
我想，壽司對中學生和大學生是正要風行起來的食物 Sushi is, I think, an up-and-coing food item for your high school kids, your college kids.
這是很健康的選擇 This is a healthy choice.
壽司！ Sushi!
我喜歡壽司，這是我要讓壽司易於攜帶的部分動機 I love sushi, and this was part of the motivation to make it portable.
我發現我愈吃愈多 I realized that i was eating more and more of it.
但你知道嗎？在你吃壽司時，就會被綁在桌邊 But you know, when you eat sushi, you're tied to a table.
你就受限於筷子 You're tied to chapsticks.
不是容易可以邊走邊吃的東西 It's not soemthing that's easy to walk around and eat.
只要看看壽司捲的形狀， Just looking at the shape of sushi rolls,
是從圓柱狀開始， well, it starts off as a cylindrial object,
然後再把它切成一塊塊的 and then you slice it into pieces.
為什麼不讓它維持圓柱狀呢？ Well, why not just keep it as a cylindrical object?
而且會有一種你可以用容器裝起來的方式， And maybe there's a way that you can put it in a container,
可以用某種方法來分送出去 and it would be dispensed out in some way.
而且還有把它推出來的好方法可以使用 And the push-up device seemed like a good way to go.
我們決定，"要把醫油放進手把裏" And we decide, "well put the soy sauce in the handle."
現在我們可以把它帶到以前不方便使用的地方來吃 we can now bring it to places where it wasn't that convenient to go before.
航空公司表示興趣，而且我們在遊樂場、遊輪裏測試 Airlines have expressed interst, and we're running tests with them - amusemnet park, cruise lines.
小朋友非常喜愛我們的產品，因為我們真的撩起他們原本就有的興奮 Kids are going crazy about our product because we are really igniting the excitement that's already there.
壽司筒是食用壽司非常有趣的方式 Sushi popper rolls is a very fun way to eat sushi.
我們衷心於可攜式壽司的推展， We're passionate about portable sushi,
而且真實反應在我們所見到的全球性的需求量上面 and we really want to respond to the demand that we're seeing globally.
歡迎來到松子，北京最受歡迎的壽司餐廳之一 Welcome to Matsuko, one of the most popular sushi restaurants in Beijing.
自古以來，中國人不是那麼愛吃生魚片， Historically, most Chinese don't really like rawfish,
但隨著收入增加， but with incomes rising,
嘴愈來愈刁 palates are becoming more sophisticated.
這是主廚湯姆 This is chef Tom.
他是中國人，但在日本受訓， He's Chinese but was trained in Japan,
他現在正在處理的藍鰭鮪魚， and right now he's slicing bluefin tuna,
是每天從其他地方空運來的 which is flown in every other day.
據稱，中國在來年將會有五千萬吃壽司的人口 By some estimates, there will be 50 million new sushi eaters in China in coming years.
但這個成長的市場引起矚目 But the growing market comes with a catch.
擔心光是中國對壽司的胃口就會掃光所有的鮪魚總量 There's concern China's appetite for sushi alone could wipe out the bluefin tuna population.
全球的產量在下降，但需求量卻在增加 The supply is falling internationally, and the demand is growing.
而且情況益發雪上加霜 And it's just gonna get worse and worse.
業界大部分的人對全世界 Most of us in the industy are quite surprised at
喜歡食用壽司的人口成長的速度非常訝異！ how fast and how rapid sushi have become a very popular dish around the world.
對壽司和生魚片的喜愛，生魚片的市場 The love of sushi and sashimi, the raw-fish market,
促使全球努力捕獲鮪魚 is driving a global effort ot get tuna.
它是世上最有利潤的動物之一 It's one of the most lucrative animals on Earth.
國際間必須瞭解的是 What we have to do as nations is being to understand that
從海洋把藍鰭鮪趕盡殺絕的後果是 the effect of removing bluefin from the sea
這個物種的未來子孫就不再存在 is that that species won't be here for future generations.
藍鰭鮪是最頂端的掠食者 The bluefin tuna is an apex predator.
站在生態系統的食物鏈中最頂端的位置 It exists at the top of the food chain of its ecosystem.
大型的藍鰭鮪，成熟的藍鰭鮪－在海裏頭是沒有東西可以碰它的， Large bluefin tuna, a mature bluefin tuna - nothing in the ocean can touch it,
無敵的 nothing.
像那樣的生物在生態系統中的地位可不可取代的 An animal like that provides an irreplaceable ecosystem benefit.
我們需要海裏頭最頂尖的掠食者 We need top predators in the ocean
因為它們吃小一點的生物 because they eat smaller animals.
這就是整個系統運作的方式 And that's how things work.
你把食物系統中的頂端掠食者拿掉試試看 See you take the top predators out of the trophic system.
然後，突然間，次級掠食者在數量上會爆發 Then, all of a sudden, the sub-predators explode in numbers
因為沒有生物會獵食它們 because there's nothing to eat them.
因此它們現在爆量了 So now they are in such enormous mumbers
超出之前受制的數量， that whatever was be low them,
它們所獵食的東西，正在崩潰 what they fed on, is being devastated.
所以，你少了頂端掠食者， So, you lose the top predator,
然後，第三級也跟著消失， and then you lose the third,
因為第二級會消耗第三級 because the seond eats the third.
然後，在第三級消失後，第二級也會跟著消失了！ And then, when the third is gone, the second disappears.
因為沒東西可以吃，就只剩下水母和海膽 'cause it has nothing to eat, and you're left with jellyfish and urchins.
絕對不充許這樣的事情發生 That cannot be allowed to happen.
藍鰭鮪在地中海、大西洋 And the bluefin tuna provides that service to the Mediterranean,
墨西哥灣、鱈魚角提供服務 to the Atlantic, to the Gulf of Mexico, to Cape Cod.
我們無法承擔失去它的代價 We can't afford to lose it.
沒有那一種生物像藍鰭鮪那樣被 There is no species taht has fared worse at the hands of humans
人類蹂躪成這樣 than the Atlantic bluefin tuna.
從1950年，史上最繁榮的盛況已經折損了60%到80%！ The populations have been reduce by 60% to 80% of their historic abundance since the 1950s.
所以，在最近的三、四十年間，這個物種已經被捕殺到只剩 So, in the last 30 or 40 years, this species las been taken down,
原來數量的20%到30% to less than 20% to 30% of what it was before.
要知道在我們有生之年，從三大洋捕捉的藍鰭鮪被捕殺 What we have to understand is that it's our generation of life on Earth that's taking the bluefin tuna out of all three
的數量已經超過環境永續發展所能承受的程度 oceans environments at a level that in some cases exceeds sustainability.
我一輩子都在當漁夫
我是第三代
因為鮪魚的價格已經為抬升到非常高的價位，有時候高達二十萬美金
是非常值錢的魚，所以我們要小心的捕獲及處理
只要在漁市場上看到有大間町的魚，我就一定會買
大間町的鮪魚是最好的，因為
捕捉鮪魚的方式和其他地方都不一樣
大間町只有一、兩個漁夫搭著小船
他們用釣的，而且一次只釣一尾
釣上來馬上放血，以最好的狀況帶回港口
最重要的是
大間町的漁夫已經追捕鮪魚有一段很長時間了！
因為我們可以在附近捉魚，所以可以保持魚類的新鮮
再則，壽司主廚說我們的鮪魚有特別的風味，由長線釣起來的風味
因為國外和日本的漁船用大型的漁網捕魚
比我們在大間町用傳統的方法捕漁更有效率
我想將來的效果會更加明顯
我們無法每天都釣鮪魚
每年之中有六個月，一個漁夫能捉三、四十隻藍鰭鮪
然而，每天漁船大部分都是空的
我已經當了一輩子的漁夫了
因為日本四週環海
我的目標是為將來後代子孫，維持漁夫生計和漁業資源
藍鰭鮪的數量減少是個嚴重的問題
很嚴重的問題
我是在華盛頓州海邊的小鎮長大的 I grew up in a little town in the Washington State on the beach.
小時候，我會在夏天到海邊 When I was little, I used to be able to go down to that beach in the sunmmer time
挖點蛤蜊、貽貝和小蝦的東西，拿回家吃 and dig for clams and mussels and little shrimp and stuff and take the clams back and eat them.
長大後，海邊逐漸死亡 As I got older, that beach started to die
因為普吉特海灣的污染、過度開發和廢水流出 because of pollution in Puget Sound and overuse and runoff.
現在我都不敢碰從那個海邊產出的任何東西 Now it's to the point where I would never touch anything that came out of that beach.
不乾淨！ It's filthy.
對我的衝擊真的很大 And it really made a huge impact on me.
這是一間只供應 This is a sushi restaurant
可以永續發展海產的餐廳 that only serves that we consider to be sustainable seafood.
意思是大部分你可以 That means most and many of the items
在一般壽司餐廳看得到的海產是 that you might see at an average sushi restaurant,
都不會在這裏找到 you're not gonna find here.
你找不到養殖的鮭魚 You're not gonna find farmed salmon.
也找不到藍鰭鮪魚 You're not gonna find bluefin tuna.
也找不到從日本養殖場來的各種蝦子和青甘魚 You're not gonna find a lot of different kinds of farmed shrimp or hamachi from Japan.
找不到鰻魚 You're not gonna find eel.
和他們相關的產品或收成 All these things have really major environmental consequences
全都是要環境付出代價 associated with their production or their havest.
我們不要像那樣的東西進來 And we don't want anything like that coming in here.
我要的是讓顧客進到餐廳裏面， I want to have an atmosphere where our customers can come in,
可以免於享受壽司的罪惡感 and they have a guilt-free sushi experience.
他們也可以看到， They can still see,
"哇！你可以維持壽司藝術的美與質 "Wow, you can maintain the beauty and the quality of the art of sushi
而且這種料理是不需要以海洋的健康作代價" and the cuisine without compromsing the health of the oceans."
那才是我們真正的目的 That's realy our mission.
我們用基本的魚貨來代替鮭魚、鮪魚和蒲燒鰻 The basic fish that we've replaced it salmon, tuna, and unagi.
我們不做蒲燒鰻，所以我們做稱為"假燒鰻"的東西 We don't use unagi. So, we do something called "faux-ngi."
嗯！是我們從不列顛哥倫比亞進來的黑鱈魚 Uh-huh. This is a black cod that we get from British Columbia.
用同樣的方法燒烤 We sear it the same way.
也放芝麻和醬汁在上面 We put the sesame seeds and the sauce on top as well.
然後，我們只做野生鮭魚 And then, we only do wild salmon.
所以，我們不作野生鮭魚， So, when we can't get the wild salmons,
而是用養殖的鮭魚， instead of doing farm salmon,
用北極紅點鮭魚 we do the Artic char.
這是遠東紅點鮭 That's the iwana.
是封閉養殖的魚類 This is a closed-farm fish.
對周遭的環境沒有衝擊 There's no impact to the surrounding enviornment.
而且來自太平洋西北方 And that's from the Pacific northwest.
不用藍鰭鮪 We dont' do bluefin tune.
而是用手釣的黃鰭鮪 We have the hand-lined yellowfin tuna.
可以嗎？ Okay?
我們終極目標是徹底改變壽司界 Our overall goal is to change the entire sushi industry.
我們不是為了開間會賺錢的餐廳 We're not out to be a niche restaurant.
而是作為餐廳的先鋒部隊 We're out to be a vanguard restaurant.
我們要示範給其他餐廳看 We want to demonstrate to the rest of the restaurant tools
就在美國這裏 here in the United States.
我們可以這樣作壽司， that are out there making sushi,
"喂！你可以做得永續一點， "hey, you can do this sustainably,
可以做得更有利一點" and you can make it profitable,"
是呀！我們先在舊金山做做看 Yeah, we're doing it in San Francisco first.
但這絕對不會只是這樣而己 But that's not the end of the story for us.
我想這是件非常重要的事，餐廳應該只用永續的漁貨
這是非常棒的想法
我總是認為永續性是一個非常簡單的觀念 I've always thought sustainability a pretty simple concept.
重點在於使用，但不能用盡， It essentially means to use but not use up,
為未來留一點東西 to leave some for the future.
對海產而言，假如你沒發覺節令， With seafood, if you're not aware of the seasons,
沒發覺你正在享用的 you're not aware of the behavior
魚類行為和動態 and the behavior and the dynamics of the fish you're enjoying,
這樣絕不可能做到永續發展 there's no way you're gonna be able to be sustainable
無論是由養殖場蓄養 in how you're havrvesting from a farm
或是從大海裏捕獲的魚類 or how you're capturing from the ocean.
看看鮭魚 You look at something like salmon.
鮭魚就是一個很好的例子 Salmon's a perfect example.
鮭魚是季節性的魚類 Salmon's a seasonal fish.
它來來回回 It runs in and out.
在河裏產卵和死去 Spawns in a river and dies.
魚卵在河裏孵化 Eggd hatch in the river.
但現在我們整年都可以從養殖場取得的鮭魚 But now we've got farms that are producting salmon year-round,
一整年，每年 all year, every year.
那不是正常的循環， That's not a normal cycle,
但我們已經發展出隨時都可以吃得到鮭魚的味口了 but we've developed a taste to be able to have salmon anytime we want.
這是非常難打破的消費喜好 It's gonna be very difficult to break down that consumer preference.
可能有方法可以永續性養殖鮭魚 Maybe there is a way to farm salmon sustainably.
可能有方法 Maybe there is.
但現在的做法， But the way it's being done right now,
沒有永續性 it's not sustainable.
有了永續性的魚貨， To have a sustainable fish,
只要仔細想一想 when you think about it,
理論上應該會更省成本，因為你會有不虞匱乏的漁業資源 should theoretically cost less because you're not dealing with resource scarcity.
不必過度剝削魚類 You're not deal with the overexploitation of a fish
尤其是那些愈來愈少的魚種 that's gonna drive it into this rare category
價格愈來愈高 that's gonna make the price skyrocket.
看看藍鰭鮪，是吧？ Look bluefin tuna, right?
很多魚種，像藍鰭鮪， Many of the species, like bluefin tuna,
深受壽司愛好的喜愛， that are preferred by sushi lovers,
壽司市場是受到國際上保護的，因為藍鰭鮪是洄游性的魚類 sushi markets are internationally protected becasue they migrate.
這些魚種是由國際團體來規範的 Those species are regulated by international bodies.
以在大西洋的藍鰭鮪為例， In the case of bluefin tuna in the Atlantic,
大西洋鮪魚委員會，或簡稱為ICCAT it's the Atlantic tuna commission, or ICCAT,
管理鮪魚的正式組織 that has authority over the management of that species.
是呀！ICCAT代表保育大西洋鮪魚的國際委員會 Yeah, ICCAT stands for the international commission for the conservation of Atlantic tunas.
但最近聽說它是代表國際上要抓光所有鮪魚的陰謀組織， But recently it's been said to stand for the international conspiracy to catch all tunas,
因為他們沒有效率 because of their ineffectiveness.
基本上，要大家遵守條約就是一項重大的挑戰 Basically, compliance is their biggest challenge.
不幸的是，這需要國與國之間大量合作來管理剩下的魚源 Unfortunately, it requires a great deal of collaboration amongst those nations to manage the stocks.
在歷史上他們已經打過很多年仗了－ And with history that they've got of wars over the years -
應該說，幾個世紀的仗－ over the centuries, I should say -
要他們同意任何事情都很難 it's very hard to get them to agree on anything.
在輕重緩急的程度上，我們沒辦法去救藍鰭鮪魚 We are never going to be able to save the bluefin tuna when it's such a low priority.
政府失敗 Governments have failed.
一再失敗 They've failed repeatedly.
這種魚本身就非常寶貴 The fish is just too valuable for its own good.
如果我們連鳥干達的男人、女人和小孩都無法保護，使他們免於滅絕 Well, if we can't protect the men, women, and children from slauhter in Rwanda,
那我們怎麼有能力去保護海裏頭的鮪魚呢？ how are we going to protect tuna from slaughter in the ocean?
迄今，買太多便宜的食材來作壽司已經形成風潮了
便宜的一百圓壽司流行起來
就是濫捕和過度消費的例子
這個趨勢會因為魚類的匱乏而終止
世界和日本都必須付出代價
我們知道115公尺長的Albatun Tres很巨大 We knew the Albatun Tres at 115 meters long was huge.
但靠近一點，你會看到不同的東西 But to see her up close was something else.
這艘船單獨一次漁獲量可達三千噸， This ship can take 3,000 tons of tuna in a single trip,
差不多將近是某些太平洋島國一整年漁獲量的兩倍 which is nearly double the catch of some Pacific island countries in a whole year.
鮪魚漁獲量在這個脆弱的地區正在下降， Tuna stocks in this fragile reagion are declining,
在海裏就是沒有足夠的魚 and there simply isn't enough fish in the sea
來填滿這些巨型漁船的貨艙 to keep the filling the holds of these large vessels.
該是採取直接的行動來引起人們的注意 It's going to take direct action to get people's attention.
力道要大到足以震撼我們這些喜愛壽司的人 It's going to be up so sushi lovers like us
能確定海裏頭將來還會有藍鰭鮪魚 to make sure that there's a future for bluefin tuna in the oceans.
力道要大到足以讓綠色和平和其他的組織 It's going to be up to groups like greenpeace and others
採取行動做出頭條新聞 to take action that will make the headlines
讓這個議題一直縈繞人們的心中， to keep this issue in the forefront of people's minds,
去迫使政府為藍鰭鮪維持正義 to force governments to do justice by bluefin tuna.
好，有個可以解決部分問題的方法－使用養殖方式
永遠不可能知道我們可以享用野生鮪魚的時間還有多久
水產養殖做得正確，藍鰭鮪魚的養殖做得正確 Aquaculture done right, bluefin tuna farmed right
可以在未來的壽司市場裏 could play a major role in the future.
扮演著主要的角色 of the species for the sushi market.
我們必須確定未來在海上和養殖場裏 We have to make sure that bluefin tuna has a future
都有藍鰭鮪存在的空間 both in the ocean and in the fish farm.
關於鮪魚最大的變化是，開始愈來愈常見到養殖的鮪魚
鮪魚的養殖最早是在澳洲
現在日本養殖鮪魚補足了野生鮪魚的供應不足
最近進到築地市場的不只有野生鮪魚，也有養殖鮪魚
養殖鮪魚的品質已有逐年提高趨勢
我在1961年到澳洲 I came to Australia in 1961.
鮪魚工業正要起步 It was the start of the tuna industry.
我們那時抓到簡直是成千上萬噸的鮪魚 We literally caught thousands and thousands and thousands tons.
那個時候你是個漁夫，負責捕魚，一旦把魚抓上船就好了
你只要把它送到罐頭工廠或類似的地方
現在不能再這樣對待鮪魚了，從抓到它的那天開始，你就必須照顧它
從頭到尾
在澳洲的工業中，鮪魚是養殖場的產品 In the Australian industry, it's a ranch product.
所以，原始的魚種是野生的，我們只是增加價值 So, the original fish are wild, and we just value-add.
我們捕捉，這麼說，兩歲到五歲的魚 We catch fish from the ages of, say, two to five years.
它們在籠子裏只待三至六個月 They spend only three to six months in a cage.
所以，它們是增加價值非常高的野生產品 So,they're very much a value-added wild product.
一旦它們在籠子裏，通常每週可以增重400至600克重
所以，那只是大約，大概 So, that's just rule of thumb, just rough.
兩天一次，天氣允許的話，每天要餵一次
我們會改變飼料，根據我們要它們長肥的程度，調查油脂的高低含量
這是我們從澳洲海灣捕來的 It's been caught in great Australian bight.
這是從加州來的鯖魚 It's been fed mackerel from California,
從歐洲來的鯡魚 herring from Europe.
從台灣來的巴掌大小的狗魚 It's been fed hand-graded pike from Taiwan.
所以，對每一磅的鮪魚 So, for every one pound of tuna,
最少需要15磅的其他魚類 we think that at least 15 pounds of other fish
餵給藍鰭鮪食用 have to be consumed by that bluefin
才能有一磅鮪魚的收穫 in order to yield one pound of tuna.
如果你為了得到一磅的鮪魚 That's a net loss to the ocean,
就要耗費十五磅的沙丁魚 if you have to feed 15 pounds of sardines
這完全是在浪費海洋資源 to get one pound of tuna.
我們應該吃沙丁魚，而不是鮪魚 We ought to be eating the sardines, not the tuna.
在澳洲的養殖業中， For about eight to ten years,
已經進行了八至十年的大量研究 there's been a lot of research in the Australian industry
基本上是在可以餵魚 to basically produce a pellet
飼料方面的研究 that we can feed the fish.
當然， And, of course,
我們也再研究 you have fish-protein,
蛋白質、魚油的補給品 fish-oil replacement reseach that's gone on, as well
所以我們可以使用植物油 So that we could use plant oils
和蛋白質製成的飼料，來維持永續性 and proteins in the pellet ot make it more sustainable.
把那個放在另一端，那裏的箱子裏面，外面的那個箱子 Put that one on the end, inside the box there. And that one on the outside.
我們在林肯港把捕獲的魚在岸邊就打包好， The fish we catch here are packed on shore in port Lincoln,
然後再由卡車花八個小時運到阿德萊德機場 then shipped eight hours by truck to the Adelaide airport.
會被送往像新加坡的地方，再向北送到東京 From there they're sent on to places such as Singapore and then on wards to Tokyo.
在東京，再進行拍賣 At Tokyo, they're sold at the auctions.
在這裏養大的魚，最後被送往日本、美國、歐洲 And the fish we raise here end up in sushi restaurants in Japan,
和世界各地的壽司餐廳 America, Europe, and other parts of the world.
我知道就在今年， I know this year,
我的岳父做了一些追蹤魚貨和生鮮魚貨的資訊 my father-in-law did some information on tracking products and fresh products.
這是要做什麼的？ And this is for what?
實際上，稱為Ikejime Essentially, it's called Ikejime...
Ikejime?
日語是這樣發音 In Japanese.
我知道什麼是Ikejime I know what Ikejime is.
所以，你們都用Ikejime處理所有鮪魚 So, you do all the tuna Ikejime.
你一定得這麼做 You have to.
基本上，這是避免鮪魚死後僵硬和放血的殺魚方法 Basically, it eases its way into rigor mortis and then ease its way out.
死後僵硬的現象就不會那麼嚴重 Rigor mortis is not as severe,
這樣你就可以拿到更持久、更穩定的魚貨 so you end up with a firmer-texture flesh for longer.
這尾魚離水多久了？ How many day out of the water?
這嘛－我得想一想 This - I got to think aobut it.
澳洲時間... Australian time...
像是...從抓起來到我們現在這裏？ Like... from harvest to where we are right now?
四天 Four days.
我的評論嗎？約三到四天 My judgement? I'd say three or four days.
是呀，四天 Yeah, four days.
大概是吃魚的最好時機 And that's about the best time to actaully eat the fish.
是呀！完全正確 Yeah, exactly.
太新鮮會有金屬味，鐵的味道 If it's to fresh, it still has that metallic, iron-flavor.
是呀！ Yeah.
魚肉也還沒完全放鬆， The flesh hasn't totally relaxed yet,
就不能給我們全部完整的口感 and it hasn't brought on all of the integral taste it could have.
是呀！你說的完全沒錯 Yeah, no, that's exactly right.
泰森在日本的同儕和在美國的魚貨供應商之間 Tyson's obvilously respected both by Japanese peers here
是倍受敬重的人物 and within the food industry within the United States.
讓我們可以藉由泰森，來進行顧客與產品之間的溝通 It allows us through Tyson to cmouunicate to the consumer about our prodcut
和為什麼要問魚是從哪來的 and why it's important to consume it
這是一件非常重要的問題 and make suer to ask questions about where it's come from,
是不是合法的魚貨、 whether it's being fished responsibly,
是不是符合永續性，是不是有機產品，所有有關的事情 that it's sustainable, that it's organic, all that sort of thing.
所以，我們必須藉由消費者， So, we want to get through to the consumer
也要藉由受人敬重的權威人士 but throguth a respected voice, too.
我最喜歡你做的就是對魚貨的鑑別 What I love about what you're doing is you're differentiating the species.
你正在鑑別的是來自澳洲、永續養殖的鮪魚 You're differentiating that it's coming from the Australian industry, which is sustainalbe.
是呀！就像是在日本的餐廳， Yes, and it's getting like a Japanese restaurant,
主廚會和顧客閒聊，而且進行有關魚貨的教育 where the chef is talking with the consumer and educating them about product.
因為他們在日本都這麼做 because that's what they do in Japan.
這是主廚和顧客之間的對話 It's a conversation between the chef and the consumer.
美國基本上還在起步的階段 Americans are basically on a beginner level
正開始要瞭解壽司和生魚片 when it comes to understanding sushi, sashimi.
成長得這麼快、規模這麼大 It's growing so rapidly, and it's a a large scale
就在相對短的時間裏 in a relatively short period of time.
泰森進入了另一個階段 Tyson's taking it to the next level.
他正在教育顧客有關壽司和料理的事， He's educating consumers on sushi and cuisine,
而且他讓它更進一步 but he's also evolving it,
令人感到振奮 which is also pretty exciting.
是呀！我們正要做的是要把南方藍鰭鮪帶進日本的市場 Yeah, what I'm trying to do with southern bluefin tuna is get it into Japan
讓消費者有不同的選擇 and get the consumers to have a choice.
在另一個意義上，他們基本上可以決定企業的道德良知 And they can basically determine the ethics of business in that sense
所以他們可以鼓勵 so that they can reward an industry
那些產生永續鮪魚的工業 that is looking to produce a sustainable tuna.
你在談南方藍鰭鮪時， When you're talking about southern bluefin tuna,
你是在說野生的、豢養的還是養殖的？ and you talking about wild-caught or ranch product or farm product?
我談的是野生捕獲，然後放在籠裏養的鮪魚 I'm talking about the wild-caught product that is then put into cages.
所以，是豢養的 So, it is a ranch product.
不是養殖的 It's not farmed.
沒有養殖的鮪魚 There's no such thing as a farmed tuna.
你覺得這樣是永續性的產品？ And you think that that's a sustainable product?
在澳洲， In the Australian industry,
每年我們配給五千噸的魚獲量 what we do is we have a quota for about 5,000 tons each year.
我們出海去 We go out.
我們用魚網捕魚 We catch that in purse-seine nets.
我們把魚載用來，送進籠子裏 We tow those tuna in, and we transfer them into cages.
用水中錄影機在養殖場裏 And we use underwater video cameras to film evey individual fish
拍下每尾魚的影片 that comes into the fishery.
我想這可能是世上 And I would argue that it's probably the most sustainable
最永續和最監控的養殖魚場 and most monitored tuna fishery in the world.
好吧！我們在那裏還是使用相對性的決定，是嗎？ Well, we're still using a relative determination there, right?
最永續性的養殖場的藍鰭鮪魚漁貨 The "most sustainable" bluefin tuna population of fishery.
當你在看世界上其它藍鰭鮪魚的養殖場 When you look at the other bluefin tuna fisheries in the world,
你就會看很多事情都做錯了！ and you just see a lot of thing that have gone wrong.
是呀！當然！ Yeah, absolutely.
當你談到像是大西洋和地中海的藍鰭鮪時， And when you talk about, like, Atlantic and Mediterranean bluefin,
你就會談到有關ICCAT的問題 and you talk about the problems that we've had with ICCAT.
我想我是非常關心鮪魚的， I think that I'm very concerned about tuna,
而且基本上就在中國 and what's going to happen when,
對壽司的味口大開的時候會發生什麼事！ basically, the Chinese taste for sushi expands.
我想這是可以完全理解的，因為你在這裏所看到的，你知道的 Okay. I think that's totally understandable, because you saw it here. You know.
美國的壽司市場已經超過十五年的爆炸量是無與倫比的 The explosion of the sushi market in the United States over the last 15 years has just been unparalleled.
是呀！我看過你的系統和理論 Yeah. I see your system and your theory.
我知道可以在很多方面起作用 I see it working in a lot of ways.
真的可以，因為我看過其他的魚種，這家餐廳裏的其他魚種 I do, because I've seen it in other species, in other fish here in this restaurant.
但為什麼這樣比較好 But why is it better
提供給消費者稍微好一點或真的非常好 to work and to offer the consumer a slightly better or significantly better
藍鰭鮪的選擇，而不是直接就說 bluefin option rather than or say,
"不要吃藍鰭鮪" "don't eat bluefin?"
因為當中國開始嚐到鮪魚的滋味， Because when the Chinese get a taste for it,
藍鰭鮪就會消失 bluefin will go.
這就是我們要教育中國消費者... What would it take to educate the Chinese consumer...
我想這是行不通的， I guess I know what it doesn't take,
而且那是目前全面封殺的策略， and that's the current stategy of a blanket approach.
而且那是沒有用的 And that's not going to work.
環保團體提出全面封殺的方法是只要食用藍鰭鮪都是不對的 The blanket approach by the conservation societies are saying that all bluefin are bad.
是呀！ Uh-huh.
基本上，這是目前正在進行的 It'a what has been done, basically.
是呀！目前正在進行的 Yeah, that's what's being done.
對藍鰭鮪全面封殺是因為我們正在處理兩個到三個主要的議題 It's saying all bluefin are bad because we're dealing with two major issues or three, really.
要處理漁獲量的問題， You're dealing with populaions,
事實上，漁獲量正在全面崩盤 the fact that populations are crashing all over.
藍鰭鮪正在... The bluefin is being...
我不同意 I disagree.
這是另一個我們看法不同的地方 That's another way where we disagree.
很公平呀！ That's fair.
南方藍鰭鮪... Southern bluefin tuna...
但那是有所爭議的其中一項 But that's one of the arguments that's being made.
南方藍鰭鮪的總量，我要說的是，是另外一回事 Southern bluefin tuna populations, I would argue, are going the other way.
我想責怪環保行動是不公平的 I think it's unfair to blame the environmental movement.
我不是在責怪環保行動 I'm not blaming the environmental movement.
因為從需求量和產業而來的問題 Because the problem's coming from the demand and the industry.
問題是需求量和產業，而不是環保行動 The problem coming from demand and industry, not from the environmental movement.
99.9%和產業相關的人都希望可以永續發展 99.9% of the people involved in the industry want it to be sustainable.
我應該說，事實上是全部的人 All of them, actually, I should say.
所有相關的人都只要為了維持家計，賺取養家活口的生計 But the people that are involved are just earning a living to provide for their families.
全部都建在非永續鮪魚的魚產業之上 And this machine is geared to unsustainably fish tuna.
的確，都是由非永續鮪魚建立起來的 Absolutely. It is geared to unsustainably fish tuna.
我們需要某種經濟的... We need some economic...
但是發動責難那些說"不要買鮪魚 "的人 But it's not fair to levy the blame on the people that are saying,
是不公平的 "don't buy bluefin."
我並沒有在責難 I'm not leveling the blame.
可是聽起來好像就是責難！ That's what it sounds like!
好吧！讓我們這樣說吧！ Okay, let me put it this way.
在歷史中那些全面封殺，可能是很糟糕的決定 History may reflect poorly on the decisions that you've made to the blanket approach.
但也可能是從事藍鰭鮪有關產業的人，做出了很糟糕的決定 It may, but it also may reflect poorly on the decisions that people have made to fish the hell out of the bluefin.
鮪魚最後的下場是什麼？ And where do we end up with tuna?
結果是我們都得不到鮪魚 We end up with no tuna.
對！ Right.
但那是我們設法要避免的下場 But that's what we're trying to stop.
海帶、海帶，黑色的蘿蔔、紅色的蘿蔔... Seaweed, the seaweed, the black radishes, the red radish...
嗨，麗莎！ Hi Lisa.
如果有人假裝我們的鮪魚要賣的話， If anybody tires to sell our tuna that is actually not our tuna,
檢查的人員就會介入，帶著樣品來看看 the inspector can go in, have a look, take a sample.
他們會叫我們過來，帶著DNA樣品來確認 They can call us up, and we can do a DNA check to make sure
他們賣出來的確實是 that what they're selling is actully
他們所說的那樣，的確是他們所說的那樣 what they're saying it is, is actually what it is.
非法的漁獲有多少... How much illegal fishing's going on...
這是個好問題... That's a good question...
你們就要帶著DNA測試的樣品過來檢查 For you guys to have to turn around and be DNA-testing fish?
ICCAT負責管理大西洋和地中海藍鰭鮪魚的團體 ICCAT, which is the group that manages the Atlantic tunas and the Mediterranean bluefin,
說過有很多非法的漁貨 have been saying that there's a lot of illegal fishing.
我相信，他們有80%的記錄是失蹤的數據 80% of their records, I believe, have missing data.
但是他們無法告訴我們那些是合法的或非法的 And they can't tell whether it's actaully legally caught or illegally caught.
那可以正可以讓我們從捕獲的那個點追蹤到消費的那個點 This allows us to trace it right from the point of capture to the point of consumption
沿著整條供應鏈來進行確認 and verify it all the way through the supply chain,
這是非常非常重要的 which is really, really important.
如果在籠子裏的 What would it be
鮪魚魚苗可以 if it would be possible
完成生命循環會是變成什麼情況？ to close the life cycle or spawn tuna in captivity?
這個計劃本身就非常荒謬 The plan in itself was preposterous.
我原先是個非法移民 I was actaully an illegal immigrant.
在這裏跳下船 I jumped the ship here.
他們把我關起來 They locked me up.
要我洗警車、 I had to wash police cars,
清理他們的後院，做這做那 and I had to clean their yards and this and that.
而且那時只有一點點人， And it was only a small amount of people,
沒有很多人 not many people here.
我現在講的是60年代 I'm talking '60s now.
就沒走了 And never left.
遇到我老婆後，就留下來了！ And I met my wife and never left.
那是我這輩子做過最偉大的事 Greatest move I've ever made in my life.
海根史塔有個非常有遠見的想法，促使他建了這個不同凡響的設施 Hagen Stehr has had a visionary idea to build this remarkable facility.
世上沒有像這個地方一樣 There's nothing like it anywhere on earth.
大家都認為我瘋了 People really thought we were mad.
"不可能成功的，做不到的" "This would not work, would not work."
不然就說，"你幹嘛搞這種鬼玩意？" said, "why the hell do you want to do that?"
設法利用陸地上的設施來繁殖藍鰭鮪魚 By spawnign the bluefin tuna in an on-land facility,
他們控制鮪魚的環境 they can control the enviornment the tuna's in.
他們取卵、孵育、養育到完成生命循環 They can take the eggs, hatch them, and raise the larvae through their life cycle.
我用我的錢建造這裏，我們接管在林肯港北方大約100公里處的孵育室 I built it with my own money, and we took over a little hatcher about 100 kilometers north of port Lincoln.
我們從世界各地找來最好的科學家，我認為最好的科學家 We got the best sicentists from around world, which I thought were the best scientists.
而且運用軍事化的操作， And in a military-style operation,
從大海裏挑魚種 we picked the fish up from the sea
把它們放進孵育室，可從屋頂打開進來的孵育室 and put them into a hatchery into an opening the hatchery on the top in the roof.
那是第一次有人把鮪魚從大海的岸邊運過來 That was the first time the transfer of tuna from the sea onto the shore.
那是我們最開始的時候 And that's when it all started.
我們利用魚類在大自然中的線索， We manipulae the fish using natural cues,
從野外能得的線索 whcih we've taken from the wild.
我們調整海流， We regulate the currents,
管制溫度， we regulate the temperature,
然後管理很多事 and then we regulate the lot.
所以，從星星得知 So, we've got the stars.
從月亮得知 We've got the moon.
從海流裏得知 We've got the water currents.
最重要的事就是，魚絕對不能離開水槽 And the big thing is, the fish never leave the tank.
每次我們都監測所有的氧氣、 Every time we monitor all the oxygen,
水質、 all the water quality,
所有的事情， all those kind of things,
我們知道基本上形成求偶的線索和像那些 we know the cues that basically cause courtship and thing like that
那些我們能瞭解和可以處理的線索 and that gives us an understading of what we're doing with those cues
到最後，要處理的就是這些卵 and in the end, end up with the eggs.
從二十尾魚，我們可以生產出，在可能的範圍內，一百萬個卵 From 20 fish, we can produce, in one might, milions of eggs.
接下來六到七年， Over the next six or seven years,
就成為你在壽司店裏吃的鮪魚和作為生魚片， the tuna you will eat in sushi shops and eat as sashimi,
它們會都是人工繁殖的鮪魚 they'll be all propagated tuna.
對此沒有其他的方法 There's just no other way around it.
我是個鮪魚漁夫 I'm a tuna fisherman.
從我到這個國家以來，我捕鮪魚捕了一輩子了！ I've been tuna-fishing all my life, since I came to this country.
我知道那就是未來，那就是我必須集中心力從事的事業 I know that that is the future, and that's what we have to concentrate on.
噢！謝了！老弟！ Oh, thanks, mate.
謝了！老弟！ Thanks, mate.
好吧！老弟！稍等一下再給我電話，好嗎？ Okay, mate, give me a ring, little bit later on, huh?
我告訴你，這是一條漫長的路
正會游泳的鮪魚幼苗，老弟
就在兩分鐘前
剛剛打電話給我的傢伙，讓我措手不及
他們現在進行接下來的幾個步驟，只是稍微向前一點
我們所有剛會游泳的幼苗，剛剛全完了
我們知道它們會吃掉卵，但從前卻沒有發生過
所以這只是另一個步驟，只是在程序之中的另外一個步驟
現在是避不掉的，避不掉的也停不了！
即使現在失去全部，
我們馬上就要重新開始，因為我們知道一切不能挽回，事情就是這樣
從前就有很多我們回答不出來的問題
而現在就是血淋淋的...
就好像所有的東西都回到原點
是呀，真是血淋淋的一天呀！ Yeah, it's a bloody good day.
你知道嗎？對整個產業是巨大的衝擊 You know, it's huge for the whole industry.
對整個世界也是 for the whole world.
對我而言，水產事業不只是產出漁貨而已 Aquacutlute for me is not just about producing fish.
也和永續發展有關 It's about the sustainability, as well.
從前我們對待有商業價值的魚種，總是豪取、強奪、偷盜 I used to commercially fish in the old days and rape, pillage, and plunder,
但這種技術對我們而言，絕對是未來的方向 but this is definitely the way of the future for us.
我想政府再不採取任何手段
有可能將來我們都會沒有食用的鮪魚
海洋裏九成的大型魚種－藍鰭鮪、 90% large fish of the oceans - bluefin tuna,
劍魚、鯊魚－都消失了 the swordfihs, the sharks - are gone.
我們把它們都抓光了！ We've caught them all.
已經徹底改變了整個海洋生態系統 And that foundamentally changes ocean ecosystems.
我們需要再把那些物種再恢復回來 We need to bring those species back.
海裏頭還有一點點， There are still a few of them around,
但是如果我們再不注意我們在海洋從事的行為， but if we don't watch what we're doing in the oceans,
假如我們不再取少一點，就會用盡野生捕獲的漁貨 if we don't star taking fewer, we're gonna run out of wild-caught seafood,
科學家告訴我們，最早在2048年就會發生 scientists tell us, as early as 2048.
我可以確定一件事，我們用盡鮪魚會比用盡石油的速度要快
我們終究要吃不一樣的壽司 We're gonna end up eating differently in sushi.
如果我們現在馬上就做，讓鮪魚 The question is, do we do it now,
的數量恢復回來， allow these stocks to come back,
為將來保存這些魚類 and preserve them for the future,
還是要把它們吃乾抹盡？ or do we just wipe them out?
我不能說你不該吃鮪魚
也不是說你可以吃鮪魚吃到飽，你可以吃幾片
鮪魚好吃，鰈魚也好吃，扁魚也好吃！
我們一定要這樣想，否則一旦魚類滅絕我們抱怨也沒有用
在政府保育物種方面已經失敗的時候， You have to ask yourself what can an individual sushi lover do help the bluefin,
你一定要捫心自問，壽司喜好者自己能幫藍鰭鮪做些什麼？ when governments themselves have failed in their responsibilities to conserve the species?
我想在這方面，消費者真的可以比政府做得更多 I think this is a case where consumers can actaully do more than governments.
這就是為什麼我們要在蒙特瑞灣海生成立海產監測計劃 That's why we invented the seafood watch program here at the Monterey Bay Aquarium -
徵求世界各地海鮮愛好者的幫助， to enlist the help of seafood lovers around the world,
以提供更好的養殖管理的商業動機， to provide commercial incentives for better fishery management,
對海洋提供更好的照顧 better care for our oceans.
我們的監測手冊裏 Our seafood watch guide
可對壽司愛好者提供較好的選擇 was designed to help sushi lovers make better choices
和對全世界，像藍鰭鮪的漁產保育，作出貢獻 and contribute to the conservation of fisheries like bluefin tuna around the world.
列在紅色部分的物種，是要避免的 There's a red list - species to avoid.
但也有黃色和綠色的列表 But there's also a yellow and green list.
所以，如果你喜歡海鮮，可以點綠色列表的海鮮 So, if you love seafood, order from the green list.
但在任何餐廳裏，提供在綠色列表上的海產 But any restaurant that's out there serving seafood is going to have something that is on the green list,
是我們真的要大家嚐試看看的東西， and that's the item that we really encourage people to try,
如果特別是你第一次吃海產， especially if it's your first time,
嚐試看看，是不是喜歡 give it a try and see if you enjoy that
作為你新的、喜歡的永續性的海產 as one of your new, favorite sustainbale seafood items.
我們所需要的是要瞭解，關於我們正從大海中消費了什麼 What we need to be is knowledgeable about what we're consuming form the sea.
大海是無窮無盡 The idea that we have a bountyless ocean
提供地球上所有人蛋白質來源的這種想法 that's got endless sources of protein for all of the people on earth
是種神話 is a myth.
長久以來，我們日本人認為食物
無論是從海洋或陸地而來，都是上帝的恩賜
我們一定要對我們的食物心存感恩
要教育我們的顧客
如果人類想要繼續活下去，就必須保證頻危的魚類也有繼續生存的權利
我們可以為所欲為，但要把它放在心裏 We can do anything, we put our minds to it.
我當然對我們人類的能力有絕對、完全的信心 I have absolute, total confident in the ability of the human race.
在很多方面，我們都做錯了， And a lot of ways, we're on the wrong track right now,
所以才會變成這個樣子，但我們在想辦法 when it comes to this stuff, but we're gonna figure it out.
我認為世界上喜愛壽司的人口一定會持續增加 I think that the world's love of sushi will continue to grow.
中國、印度和其他新興市場正要開始食用壽司－ China, India, and other emerging markets are just beginning to eat sushi-
一定是非常巨大的市場 huge markets, for sure.
如果要食用特定的魚種，就必須調整養殖的魚種 People may have to adjust to farmed fish if they want to continue eating certain species.
消費者可能有能力從事政府做不到的事－ Perhaps consumers will have the ability to do what governments can't-
食用永續經營的魚類 eat sustainably caught fish
支持提供這種取代方案的這些公司和漁民 and provide those companies and fishermen that offer such alternatives.
這種抉擇絕對是屬於每一個人的 The choice is ultimately ours, as individuals.
2011年1月4日，一尾藍鰭鮪在築地市場的拍賣創下歷史新高，達四十萬美金
海根史塔繼續在容器裏養殖鮪魚的實驗
在澳洲，正在餵養鮪魚幼苗