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我叫安东尼·鲍威尔 My name is Anthony Powell.
我在新西兰塔拉纳基的这个乳牛场长大 I grew up on this dairy farm in Taranaki, New Zealand.
但实际上我成年后的大部分时光 But I've actually spent most
都在南极洲生活和工作 of my adult life living and working in Antarctica.
人们最常问我的一个问题就是 The most common question I get asked is
在那儿的生活是什么样的 "What's it like to live down there?"
这很难用语言描述 It's so hard to answer that in words
而且以往也从未真正地用影片来记录过 and it's never really been captured on film before.
但是有种定时间隔照相技术 But there's something about time lapse photography
能将大自然的万千动态活灵活现地展示给你 that brings to life the dynamic forces of nature
让你能够体会和感知到你周围 that you can feel and sense around you,
很难用眼睛观察到的自然动态 but you can't actually see.
所以我自学了各种各样摄像机的使用方法 So I've taught myself how to use a variety of cameras
还在闲暇时间自制了一些设备 and built some homemade equipment in my spare time
它们在严寒环境下仍然能够运作 that can still function in the extreme cold.
这部影片上倾注了我十多年的心血 It's taken me more than 10 years to make this film.
为了置办这些摄影器材 I've worn out thousands of dollars
我更是倾家荡产 worth of camera gear...
我在冰天雪地中不知花费了多少时间 and spent countless hours standing in the freezing cold
就为了在这片广阔重要的土地 in an effort to capture the true feeling of this vast
捕捉一丝真实的感受 important place.
在南极洲 其实只有两个季节 There really are only two seasons in Antarctica:
匆匆而过的夏季 大多数科研活动都在此时进行 a busy summer when most of the science happens...
以及荒凉寂寥的冬季 and a wild and lonely winter
鲜有人经历过它 that few people will ever experience.
要想真正地了解这个地方 To understand the place properly
你得这冰雪世界 you really need to spend one full year
生活一整年才行 down here on the ice.
南 极 洲
冰上的一年
南极大陆位于 这颗星球底部
面积大于整个美国
夏季只有5000人这里工作
他们运转着散布于冰川上的 小型国际基地 以支持 公共请求及科研工作
整个冬天只留下不到700人
美国南极计划客运机场
新西兰基督城
十月
夏季的开始
我想也许大多数人 I think that most people
夏季的开始
十月
认为我们都是科学家 think that we're all scientists.
但有人真正生活在这儿 There are real people down here.
不只是你在国家地理频道上 It's not just the people you see
看到的那些人 on the National Geographic channels
他们也不是那些 or it's not people who can afford
能付得起一万美元的游客 a $10.000 cruise.
他们就是和你我一样的 It's people who are just like you and me
普通居民 who are average citizens
在这里工作 生活 who are working and doing a job
呼吸到南极洲的第一口空气的感觉 That first breath...
就像脸上狠狠地挨了一下打 it's like a sledgehammer to the face.
这是你的叫醒服务 It's your wake up call.
不过还好 你现在终于到这儿了 It's okay, you're here now.
这是事实 This is the real deal.
我简直不能相信我真的这样做了 I couldn't believe I was actually doing it.
我真的在这儿了 I was actually here.
我到达了南极洲 I was in Antarctica...
这颗星球的最底端 the bottom of the planet.
随之而来的想法是 And then my second thought was
"哦 老天 我都干了些啥" "Oh crap, what have I just done?"
消防员
为什么我会在这儿 Why am I here?
我看到了Erebus火山 I saw Erebus
我想去那里徒步游览 and wanted to go hiking there
和滑雪 and snowboard down it
但我很快就被告知 "不行" and I was quickly told "No"
然后就只能动身去工作 and then I was off to work.
机修工
刚刚我们还一直在想 噢 我们就要去南极洲了 We had been thinking oh we're going to Antarctica
然后到了以后却在想 没错我该去工作了 and when you get here it's like, oh yeah I've gotta work
南极站 操作菜单
增开/修改航班
批准行动
组织优化航班
最后优化航班
航班舱单录入
快速登记
一开始你还没有把它放在心上 And you don't put that into your head your first time
能来南极洲太令人激动了 you're so excited about coming down
以至于几乎我们忘了到这儿来是有原因的 that you forget that you're coming down here for a reason.
管理处
他们催促我们赶快下飞机 They hurried us off the plane
所以我们还没机会好好看看周围的景致 so we couldn't take a look around
只知道自己已经到了 and pretty much it was just here
而下一秒我们就发现自己在镇上了 and the next thing we knew we were in town.
所以麦克默多站可以算是我们对南极的第一印象 So the first thing we really saw of Antarctica was McMurdo
让人有点小小的失望呢 and that's always kind of disappointing sometimes.
麦克默多站 (美国)
目前南极洲最大的科考站
夏季有多达1200人住在这儿
宠物与小孩不允许待在这儿
这是一个布局狭小而紧凑的社区 It's a pretty small, tight community
人们齐心协力把事情做好 People pull together and get things done.
用仅有的匮乏物资把任务完成 还挺令人感慨的 Pretty amazing what gets done for what little we have.
我在这儿遇见了各种各样的人 I've seen a lot of different personalities come down here.
有些任劳任怨埋头苦干 The ones that seem to do the most of it are
有些顽固强硬 还有些脚踏实地 the die-hards or the more grounded people.
麦克默多站 (美国)
麦克默多站坐落于罗斯岛的邻海地带 McMurdo Station sits beside the sea on Ross Island.
也是Erebus火山山脚下 It's dwarfed by Mt. Erebus
那是地球上最南端的活火山 the southernmost active volcano in the world.
距离岛屿的另一边三公里处 Three kilometers away on the other side of the peninsula
是小小的新西兰的基地 is the small New Zealand outpost
斯科特基地
Scott Base.
欢迎光临
斯科特基地
罗斯 属地省会
人口：33
相比零零落落散布于南极洲的其他基地 Scott Base is a lot more typical in size
夏季人口：80 冬季人口：10
斯科特基地的规模是比较典型的 of the other bases dotted around Antarctica.
同时 它与麦克默多站毗邻 这也与众不同 And its proximity to McMurdo is unusual.
夏季人口：80 冬季人口：10
麦克默多
斯科特基地
在整个南极洲 只有30个基地有人员常驻 There are only 30 permanently manned bases
而且它们当中的大多数 on the entire continent and most of these
冬季时居住人数不到20个 have less than 20 people living in them in the winter.
在斯科特基地 你只能在一幢建筑内生活和工作 At Scott Base you have to live and work in one building.
我们宿舍非常狭小 Our accommodation is a very small room
就像一个牢房 如果你喜欢这样叫 It's like a cell, if you like,
或者一个橱柜 or a cupboard.
在这里的生活工作节奏快得很 A lot of things here can get to you pretty quickly
尤其在冬季 especially in winter.
你无力改变 And you cannot change them.
也不能抱怨太多 You cannot argue much about them either
Scott基地通信工程师
因为你马上就会当面遇到这个人 because this person will be in front of your eyes,
你懂 在下一个工作间隙 you know, on the next Smoko.
所以学会忍耐非常重要 So to be tolerant is very important.
当人们问我为什么 When people ask me why
要回来这里时 to come back because this is the second time
因为这是我第二次来到南极洲 I've arrived in Antarctica.
零售店
对我来说 那些洁白的雪山就是我的理由 For me it's those white mountains.
远眺着洁白的雪山 Those white mountains
你就会明白 and you look across and you know
因为人类历经千难万阻 just because humanity had trouble
第一次涉足这片土地 我们初来乍到 getting here in the first place we're relatively new arrivals.
所以还没有机会去把它弄的乌烟瘴气 We have not had the opportunity to mess it up very much yet.
在南极洲 我认为 国家之间 We have nations getting along better in Antarctica
比世界上任何地方都要相处和谐 than I think they're doing anywhere else in the world.
这种状态值得我们去守护 It's worth something to keep it this way
如果我们尽其所能地保持协作 if we can do whatever we can to keep the co-operations
仅仅只是纯粹地追求的事物 and just the pure pursuit of things
那样我们才更像人类 that make us better as humans.
那正是这片大陆上正在发生着的 That's happening right now
特殊而奇妙 on this continent, and it's special.
我可以永远生活在这里 I could live indefinitely here
前提是如果可能的话 if I could, on occasion,
零售店主
偶尔让我够出去一趟 get out.
我从未... Like I haven't...
不夸张地说 自8月份起 I've literally gone nowhere
我什么地方都没有去过 since August.
大部分长期生活在这里的人们 Most people that have been here that long
至少可能已经去过 at least have gone to maybe
地极或者其他的地方... the Pole or something...
或者至少走出过镇外 or at least gotten out of town.
你将会看到一些好玩的东西 You will get to see some fun stuff
但是来到这里最主要的目的还是工作 but the main thing you're down here for is to work.
当遭遇严寒时 And I hate to sound cold
我讨厌寒冷 when it comes to that,
但是我想很多人会忽视严寒 but I think a lot of people lose that focus
当他们来到这里 and when they come down here
他们看到的只有洗碗室 and all they get to see is a dish room
或是全部时间共用一台电脑 or get to stare at a computer the whole time
我想他们可能有点幻想破灭了 I think they might be a little disillusioned.
最开始我和意大利人一起来到这里 I came down with the Italians originally.
那时我心想 But having done it once
这样的经历有一次就足够了 you know I sort of thought well that'll do.
新西兰直升机飞行员
但是数年后 But a couple of years later
我又回来了 I was back again.
老地方啦 Still here.
Rob在南极开直升飞机已经有20个年头了 Rob has been flying in Antarctica for 20 years,
但是他从来没有在冬天的时候开过 but he's never done a winter here.
因为直升飞机只有在夏天的时候才能飞行 Helicopters only fly in the summer.
在南极开直升飞机比在新西兰要安全多了 It's probably safer flying here than in New Zealand
因为永远不需要和天气作斗争 because you never have to contend with the weather.
新西兰天气变幻莫测 At home there's various degrees of weather.
在这里 天气要么好 要么糟糕 Here it's either good or it's not.
但在新西兰 天气可能还行 Whereas home, it might be okay
可能有点难度 or just okay
或者我需要告诉自己我能克服它 or I think I can make it.
但是在这不需要考虑那么多 But there's none of that here.
你最喜欢飞往什么地方呢 So, what would be your favorite place to fly to?
新西兰基督城 Christchurch.
开玩笑的 我喜欢干谷 No, I like the Dry Valleys.
我喜欢莱特上冰川 还有灯塔峡谷 I like the Upper Wright and the Beacon Valley as well.
景色壮观 着实壮艳 It's spectacular scenery, it really is.
和Rob一样 我也是其中一位幸运儿 Like Rob, I'm one of the lucky ones.
我在南极从事的工作 The work I do in Antarctica
使我能够走出去 allows me to get out and experience
体验这神奇大陆 some of the grandeur and vast emptiness
体验那些旷阔无垠的宏伟景象 of this amazing continent.
不管在工地有没有研究项目 Wherever there is research happening in the field
他们都需要通信工具 they need their communications support.
所以我花费了很长时间 So I spend a lot of time
在边远地区 setting up radio equipment
设置无线电设备 in remote locations.
1998年 当我第一次来到这里 When I first came down here in 1998,
我惊讶于这纯洁无暇的美景 I was struck by how pure and untouched it was.
世上还有这样一处地方 There's still places here
人类未曾涉足 where no human has ever set foot.
南极干谷
地球上与火星最相似的地方
我非常庆幸世界上还保有这么一处 I just love that there's still places
可以体会这份绝对静谧的地方 in the world you can go to experience absolute silence.
当你身处此地 没有微风拂过 When you're out here and there's no wind
耳边掠过一些声音... your ears are just straining to hear something...
也许就是全部的声音 anything.
你只是还没有意识到 You just don't realize
是多么的嘈杂 in your daily life back in the real world.
有一点非常重要 One very important thing when you're...
当你在偏远工地作业时 working in the deep field is...
一定要确保不要把尿壶 to make sure never to confuse your pee bottle
和水壶混淆了 with your water bottle.
呃 Well...
这是Erebus火山山顶 the summit of Erebus
还有冰雪喷气孔 and an ice fumarole that's growing
它成形于其中一处裂缝喷出的蒸汽 from steam coming out of one of the cracks here.
大部分时间 Most days
我不敢相信我可以在这工作 I can't believe I get to work in this place.
但是有时我又会想 But there are days when I think
他们付的薪水实在太少了 they just can't pay me enough.
天啊 这地方糟糕透了 God, this is an awful place.
从理论上来说 那里应该有一面旗帜 In theory there should be a flag right about there.
耶 我们到了 Ah yeah, there we go.
对GPS简直不能爱更多 Gotta love GPSs.
现在是夏季中旬 It's the middle of summer
我们来看下时间 and if we check the time it's ah...
刚刚过了12点 just after 12 o'clock.
我是说午夜12点 That's 12 o'clock midnight though.
麦克默多长达四个月的时间为极昼
圣诞节快乐 Merry Christmas!
啊 圣诞晚餐 Ah, Christmas dinner...
我们为好多人准备了美食 making food for lots and lots of people.
厨师
多么重要的一天 It's a big day.
我们相互送来节日的祝贺 We're spreading holiday cheer.
我想 对于很多年轻人来说 I think for a lot of younger folks that come down
这将是一段难忘的经历 it's a real good experience for them.
可能对很多人来说不是一份正式的工作 It's probably not a career for most people,
但是有些人却将其视为自己的职业 but for some... it is.
运营管理
我发觉我很喜欢这儿 I think I found it
有点爱上这里了 and kind of fell in love with it.
George从1999年开始每年都会来南极洲 他在这儿度过的冬天比任何人都多
我来到南极 I have been coming to Antarctica
已经有13年的时间 for about 13 years now.
当我第一次来到这里的时候 And when I came down the first time
我心里想 "酷 有一次这样的经历一定很棒" I thought, "Ah yeah this will be great to do once. "
只要来过南极就很棒 You know, just come to Antarctica.
我可以跟别人说 "喔 我来过南极" And then I can say, "Wow, I went to Antarctica. "
接下来一年 And then I signed on
财务
我又签署了合约 for a contract the following year
接下来... 我不知道发生了什么 and then... I don't know what happened.
反正我还在这里 I'm still here.
南极的妇女中有这样的传言 There's a saying among the women of Antarctica
"有缘是好事 "The odds are good.
好事皆有缘" But the goods, are odd. "
我和Christine在这里相遇 Christine and I met down here
2003年的冬季我向她求婚 and I proposed to her in the winter of 2003.
6周后我们即兴举办了一场婚礼 6 weeks later we had an impromptu wedding
就在这冰原上 down here on the ice.
所有花都是用纸折的 The flowers were all hand made with folded paper.
Christine的好朋友Lori Christine's friend Lori
用捐赠的布料为她做了一件婚纱 made up a dress from donated fabric.
水管工帮我们用黄铜 And the plumbers cut us some rings
做了一对戒指 made of brass.
我从站长Eric那儿借了 I borrowed the only dinner jacket on base
这里仅有的一件晚礼服 from Eric, the station manager
Eric后来做了我们婚礼的司仪 who then acted as our celebrant.
今夜 在这里 在罗斯岛 On this night here on Ross Island,
Christine Marie Gamble女士 Christine Marie Gamble
和Anthony Brendan Powell先生 and Anthony Brendan Powell
将向他们忠贞不渝的爱情 are celebrating their love
彼此做出宣誓 and commitment to each other.
今夜 无论是在灵魂上 And tonight they will join
思想上 还是身体上 as husband and wife
他们都将属于彼此 正式结为夫妻 in heart, body and soul.
嗨 老爸 Hi, Dad!
Antz Chris你们还好吗
还不错 你继续 Just fine. Go ahead.
我想先跟Antz说几句
Antz在吗
我在这儿呢 I'm here.
好的 Antz
这婚礼上我把女儿交给你了
祝贺你
谢谢您 Thank you.
我觉得你是个好小伙子
我听说过你做的好事
我不太了解你
我们以后会加深认识的
现在是Christine
希望你和Antz一辈子幸福
白头偕老
我已经在这儿过了9个冬天 I've wintered over here nine times now
Christine在这儿也过了8个冬天了 and Christine has wintered eight times
在冰原上生活 Living on the ice is just something
已经成为我们人生中重要的一部分 that's become so ingrained in both of us.
伯德角
Adelie企鹅
已知最老的Adelie企鹅是18岁 然而没人真的知道 它们能存活多久
智商:与鸡相似
那些企鹅电视节目 The TV version of penguins
是不会告诉你看到一大群 doesn't prepare you for the reality
企鹅殖民者的现实感受的 of seeing an actual penguin colony.
冰原上到处都是 There are thousands
冰冻的企鹅尸体 有成千上万具 of frozen penguin corpses that litter the ground.
夏天里 数以十万计的企鹅散发出来的下水管似的臭气 And in summer the sewer stench from 100.000 penguins
简直让人无法忍受 can be pretty unbearable.
十 九 八 Ten... nine... eight...
七 六 五 四 Seven... Six... Five... Four...
三 二 一 Three... Two... One...
新年快乐 麦克默多站 Happy New Year, McMurdo!
我爱上这儿有很多原因 I like this place for a lot of reasons
一部分是因为住在麦克默多站 Part of me feels like living at McMurdo
让我觉得就像住在永无岛上 is like living in Never-never Land. (注: 永无岛也可译为梦幻岛 《彼得·潘》中的地名 只有小孩子才能进入的梦幻乐园)
这边有很多人 There's a lot of people
大家的人生全都走上了 they have gone in a very
非同寻常的一条路 different path in their lives.
而我最喜欢的事就是 And sometimes one of the things I like the best
可以和一群愿意 is being able to live a life
过与众不同的人生 with people who are willing to take
的人们生活在一起 a slightly different path in life.
我人生中第一次 And so for the first time in my life
和身边的大多数人们志趣相同 I'm part of a majority because a lot of us feel that way.
而我以前从来都没有过这样的感受 And I've never been part of the majority before.
我们现在这样 就像生活在一个小盒子里 We're in this... we're in a box.
彼此之间无处躲藏 And there's no escape from each other.
你没法子从中抽身 You can't get away.
你被迫每天和大家一起生活 互相影响 You're forced to interact day in and day out.
你会发现了解一个人的速度 And you get to know people
非常非常快 very, very quickly.
不管你和他们的关系好还是不好 Whether those relationships be good or bad
都会变得非常紧密 they're going to be very, very intense.
太精彩了 That was awesome!
好 准备再联系一次 Okay, stand by for contact again.
新年里会有碎冰船驶入 为供给的船只开道
麦克默多海峡是向南行船 McMurdo Sound is as far south
可以抵达的最远的地方了 as it is possible to bring a ship in the world.
补给船的到来 And the arrival of the supply ship
意味着夏天已经所剩无几了 marks the last gasp of summer here.
每年卸载的补给重达千万磅级
卸货向来是在与将至的凛冬赛跑
一旦船上的补给品卸载完毕 Once the ship has been offloaded it's immediately reloaded
就会马上再装上垃圾 回收物 人类的排泄物 with all the rubbish, recycling, human waste,
以及上一年度的科学研究成果返回去 and science-related cargo from the last year.
什么都不会留下 Nothing is left behind.
到了二月底 At the end of February, the sun starts to briefly
太阳开始只是短暂地从地平线上划过就消失不见 dip back below the horizon.
我们这些决定要留下来过冬的人 And those of us who will be wintering over
就开始到处搜寻自己的小伙伴了 begin to seek each other out.
但大多数人都会计划回家 But most people are thinking about heading home.
你有没有兴趣 Have you ever been tempted
冬天时留在这边 to hang around for the winter?
没兴趣 No.
当最后一架飞机飞走了 就完了 When the last plane leaves that's it.
你接下来6个月都被困在这儿了 You're stuck here for the next 6 months.
走不成了 No way out.
我记得我当时想 我他妈的到底在干啥 I remember thinking what the hell did I do?
我应该乘那架飞机一起离开这里 I should be on that plane.
不 No!
老天 帮帮我们吧 God help us!
当飞机离开时 Once it's gone,
当它的声音渐渐消失在天际 and the last sound of it has disappeared,
就好像整座小镇都深深地叹了一口气 it's like the whole town just breathes a huge sigh.
好吧 就剩我们这些人了 Okay, here we are.
你环顾四周 看着身边的人们 You look around at the people
然后你说 "好吧 你们就是我未来六个月里的 and you say, "Okay, you're my friends...
小伙伴和家人了" you're my family for the next 6 months. "
我第一次来南极就是在冬天 My first season was in the winter
我清清楚楚地记着 and I do recall watching
我看着飞机飞走时心里想的 that last plane leaving and thinking
老天 我希望这就是我想要的 boy I hope this is what I want to do.
所有南极站注意 Attention all stations.
这里是恶劣天气预警 Stand by for a severe weather condition announcement.
麦克默多站的下列地点已经成为 McMurdo weather has set severe weather condition 2
恶劣天气二级地点 包括 for the following locations
麦克默多站 T点区 抵达高坪 McMurdo Station, T - Site, Arrival Heights,
去往斯科特基地的沿线道路 The Road to Scott Base,
帕加索斯区及去往帕加索斯区沿路 Pegasus Field and road to Pegasus Field.
其他各区目前为三级恶劣天气 All other locations remain Condition 3.
如果有什么疑问 If there's any questions
请联系麦克默多天气站 please contact McMurdo Weather
电话分机号码 2523-2524 at extension 2523-2524.
有些人可以欣然接受这样的天气情况 Some people take the winters here very well
其他人则会很沮丧 and there's others that come down
他们就是无法接受这样的恶劣天气 that just don't do well with winter.
因为这样一来 他们一下子就没事干了 You know there's not enough going on for them.
也没有任何社交活动了 There's not enough social life for them.
所以说 过冬与不过冬的人之间 It's actually, I think a pretty definite line
区别其实很明显 between winter people and non-winter people.
我是说 差别通常还是挺大的 I mean, it's usually fairly obvious.
在冬季 我的主要工作之一是 One of my main jobs during the winter
与外界保持联系 is to maintain communications with the outside world
这意味着我要经常横穿冰架 This means regular trips out across the ice shelf
前往布莱克岛的卫星转播台 to the satellite station on Black Island.
在夏季 During the summer,
乘直升机十分钟就能到 it's only a 10-minute helicopter flight away.
但在冬天 这趟行程意味着 But during the winter it means getting in a vehicle,
我要钻进雪地车 开车前往那里 like a Pisten Bully and driving there.
顺利的话 大概要开六个小时 When conditions are good it's about a six-hour drive.
但近几年来 这些冰架的表面 But in recent years the ice shelf has been having
已经开始融化 a lot of trouble with surface melt.
所以有时我们可以说是 So sometimes we've been literally
在比车还大的洞里爬进爬出 crawling in and out of holes taller than the vehicles
奋力探索出一条路来 trying to find a way to get there.
又是怎么了 Hmm, now what?
绕过去 Get around that
Bill 你找得到一条出去的路吗 Hey Bill, can you see any way through?
是 应该没问题 Yeah, should be all right.
布莱克岛是地球上 Black Island is one of the windiest places
最为狂风肆虐的地方之一 on the planet.
风力之强以至于最高风速 It's so windy that peak winds
从未能被准确测量 have never been accurately measured
因为风速计容易被刮走 because of the wind gauges getting blown away.
冬天每周会有相当于一级飓风的暴风
每月有场三级风暴
通常每个冬天至少有一场五级风暴
在南极当一名卫星工程师
听起来挺吸引人的
但他们在工作描述中
忘了提到其它职责
比如每小时风速90英里的情况下
解冻冻结的导尿管
天气情况
温度
气压
风速
风向
日射量
实时风速是114公里/小时 Current wind speed is 114 miles per hour
温度
天气情况
气压
风速
风向
日射量
温度
风速
风向
日射量
温度
气压
天气情况
温度
天气情况
温度
气压
风速
风向
日射量
也就是99海里/小时... or 99 knots...
天气情况
温度
天气情况
温度
现在是123公里/小时 Make that 123 miles an hour.
天气情况
温度
气压
天气情况
温度
风速
风向
日射量
天气情况
温度
天气情况
虽然摄像机被三脚架固定住 Although the camera is on the tripod,
但是你可以看到 画面抖得很厉害 you can see the picture is actually quite shaky.
那是因为整栋房子 That's because the whole building
都被这时速100海里的狂风震个不停 is being shaken by the 100-knot winds
我们赶上好时候了 we've got at the moment.
我正走去安置卫星主站的屋顶 Just go for a walk out into the main satellite dome here
给你们看看它长什么样 and show you what it looks like.
你们可以看到 这里稍有些风 As you can see, it's a wee bit windy.
接下来我要向你们展示 I'll just show you what it's like
经历了风暴之后的工棚 in the bunkhouse here after the last storm.
角落里随处可见的雪 All the snow you can see in the corner of the room here
基本上都是从窗户封条的缝隙处 basically worked its way in
趁虚深入 through the tiny gaps in the window seals.
风速已经达到222公里/小时了 The wind speeds got up to 222 miles an hour
这间屋子被雪塞满也只是片刻功夫的事 so this filled up in just a matter of a few hours.
那里有一整个的休息套间 And there's a complete lounge suite
就在那边的角落里 in the corner over there.
这是火炉 This is the fireplace
通常整个房间靠它保暖 that's normally used for keeping the room warm.
随着海水的冻结 罗斯岛上的野生动物开始消失
在三月中旬 In the middle of March,
有几周短暂而神奇日子 there's that magical brief couple of weeks
此时日起日落 when the sun is rising and setting
宛若平常 like normal days
你大可在夜晚 and you can actually leave the curtains open
任窗帘敞开 on your window at night
等待第二天清早被阳光叫醒 to be woken up by the sunrise in the morning.
我们外出时风刮了过来 We were out and the wind came up
实在是太冷了 以至于有好些时候 and there was just moments that it was so cold
消防派遣
我甚至能真真切切地 I could really
感知到寒风即将带来的危险 actually feel the danger in it
我感觉...这狂风 and feel the... this crazy like mind thing
像是要侵蚀你的意志一样... that happened that was like...
你难以专注于任何事情 it was hard to focus on anything
除了想方设法逃出这个厄境 except just getting out of the conditions we were in
努力让自己暖和起来 and trying to just be warm again.
很难还有心思去考虑 It was really hard to still focus on
把所有的齿轮收集起来以及 gathering all of the gear and trying
做出逃生的正确行为 to do what needed to be done
而不是只顾着逃跑 rather that just run
胡乱找一辆车 for whatever vehicle
又或者你懂的... or, you know, it was...
令人惊讶的是 it was amazing how
那时你会出于本能.. your instinct... it just...
下意识地停止思考 it just snaps.
其实我第一次感受到无比的寒冷 The first time where I was just ridiculously cold
就是在几天之前 和你在一起 was actually with you just a few days ago
在山顶拍位移照片 taking the shift photo up on the hill.
哦我记得 Oh yeah.
鞭子一样的风抽打在每个人脸上 The wind was whipping through there.
我敢说那寒风有零下八十度 I'd probably say it was negative 80 with wind chill.
我记得我观察到了Chris Cavanaughd的脸 And I remember looking over at Chris Cavanaugh
眼泪顺着他的脸哗哗往下淌 and tears were streaming down his face.
他却根本不知道这事 因为实在太冷了 He didn't even know it because it was so cold
让我吃惊的是 and the thing that surprised me
当他再次看我时 is when he looked at me a second time
那些眼泪在他脸上结冰了 those tears had frozen to his face.
那真是... So that's...
让我印象十分深刻 that made an impression on me.
也许我们该进屋了 Maybe it's time to get inside.
我们距离这里最近的海水所在地 We're about 30 K's away
大概有30千米远 这里依然随处可见 from the nearest seawater here and it's still quite common
类似这家伙的东西 to find guys like this.
这是一头木乃伊海豹 It's a mummified seal
它迷失了方向 that's lost its way
在内陆徘徊 and wandered inland.
这是十分常见的事情 It's an amazingly common occurrence.
看到这些不幸的动物 It's heartbreaking when you see
让人有些心痛 animals in distress like this
因为我们不能干预 because we're not allowed to interfere
只能顺其自然 任其发展 We just have to let nature take its course.
日子真的很难熬 It can be really hard
当你远离家乡仅能耳闻家事时 just being away from home and hearing stories.
我姐姐一周前生了小宝宝 My sister just had a baby boy a week ago.
那天真的是... And that day was...
喜忧参半的一天 really bittersweet.
这的确是件喜事 It was really cool,
但..其实我想的仅仅是 but man I wanted nothing more than
离开这鬼地方 to get the hell out of here
只要一天就好 just for a day.
回家共享欢乐 Go home and enjoy that moment
和我的家人在一起 因为他们团聚一堂 with my family because they were all together
然而我却困在这里 and then I was down here,
你知道的 整天都在回邮件 you know, shooting emails out all day
然后打几次电话 and then on the phone a couple times
真的是很难 很难 and that was really really hard.
因此对于我来说 So for me,
真正糟糕透顶的绝对是 what sucks is definitely
思念家人 更重要的是错过 missing family, but more importantly
和他们在一起的重要时刻 missing these big moments with them,
你知道的 you know,
以及他们的生活 my family's lives back home.
恩 我的意思是说 首先 Well, I mean, first of all,
我有我的顾虑 I had my concerns.
我在生活中经常这么做 And this is what I do always in my life
如果我感到情绪很低落 that if I'm ever feeling low
以防万一 我身边总带着能缓解我情绪的物品 I have things around just in case.
其中之一就是我带来了很多我家人的照片 One of the things is I brought a lot of photos of my family
我把它们粘在冰箱上面 so I have them taped to my fridge.
我就会知道 And then I just know
总有人是陪在我身边的 that there's always people on my side
即使生活像一面迎面倒来的墙 even if it seems like the walls are closing in down here.
那是普通的一天 It was just like any other day
电话响了 and the phone rang.
是我的祖母 It was my grandmother
顿时我的心情变沉重了 因为 and immediately my heart sunk because
我知道有些事情不对劲 I knew something was wrong.
她告诉我我的父亲已经去世了 And she told me that my father had passed away
... and...
太震惊了 it was quite a shock.
我从来都没有想到 I never expected that
这... 这真的很难接受 it was... it was really difficult.
我是说 当你失去父亲或者母亲的时候 I mean, when you lose a parent
这是很大的事情 不能够 it's a big thing. And to not be able
在那段时间陪着你的家人 to be with your family during that time
也不能去参加葬礼 and not being able to go to the funeral.
我只是... 永远不能去完成这些事了 I just... it leaves things unfinished.
我想在那陪着我的家人 I wanted to be there for my family.
我需要在那儿 I needed to be there
但我做不到 and I couldn't.
这也许是这个星球上最与世隔绝的地方 It's probably the most isolated place on the planet
真的很难去适应 and that's really hard to adjust to.
我看到那些人... I can see people who...
对他们来说 一个冬天就够受的了 one winter would be enough for them.
对大部分人来说都很难熬 It's really hard for a lot of people.
我发现有这样一个曲线的峰值 I found that there was this curve
就是我非常想去 where I just really started missing like
吃寿司和印度菜 eating sushi and Indian food
去看电影 就好像 and going to movies and just like...
正常的生活 the life.
然后我就觉得 And then it became like so much
我真的错过了太多的东西 that I just really missed it a lot
之后这种愿望就下降了 and then it just dropped off and...
我又不再想了 I don't miss...
我不知道这是否是像 I don't know if it's like
一个创伤后应激障碍反应 a post-traumatic stress disorder response
或者我不愿再去想我错过了什么 or I don't want to think about what I miss
或者我会真的伤心什么的 or I'll get really distressed or what it is,
但是我并不是错过很多 but there's not a lot that I miss.
我最近一直想吃鳄梨 I've been thinking about avocados lately.
鳄梨是极好的 An avocado would be nice.
你也许想要 You may want to have
一个吐司配鳄梨 a toast with avocado
然后你只能在梦里见到它 and then you can only dream about it.
但是简单的像 But simple as...
红茶配新鲜的牛奶 black tea with fresh milk
或者更好一点 or perhaps even better
配新鲜的奶油 with fresh cream.
黑面包 Dark bread.
菜花 Cauliflower.
棒极了 It's brilliant.
能吃上一个新鲜的菜花头 Just to have a fresh head of cauliflower
也非常不错了 would be very nice now.
不！！！ Noooooo!
不好 我们现在不能为他做任何事情 It's no good we can't do anything for him now
在2008年的冬天 In the winter of 2008,
我发起了一个48小时的 I started a 48-hour
南极电影节 Antarctic film festival.
并且邀请了大陆上所有基地的成员参加 and invited all the bases on the continent to participate.
爱德华七世角(英国)
克尔格伦群岛(法国)
每年看这些电影的 One of the greatest pleasures
最大乐趣之一 of watching these films each year
昭和基地(日本)
就是看看其他基地什么样子 is just getting to see what the other bases look like...
萨纳站(南非)
特洛站(挪威)
同时看看谁还在 and who else is out there
白令豪山(俄罗斯)
冰上过冬 wintering over on the ice.
斯科特基地(新西兰)
罗瑟拉站(英国)
Carolina Carolina,
很高兴听到你的声音 great to hear your voice.
是的 你最近怎么样？ Yes how are you?
莫森站(澳大利亚)
我很好 是的 还不错 I'm good. Yeah, yeah, I'm fine.
这里一切都好 Everything's good here.
就是... Just um...
正在 having...
正在吃早饭 喝咖啡 having my breakfast and some coffee.
你父母怎么样？ How are your parents?
还有一个小时吗 -恩 Another hour? - Ummm.
我们会再次看见太阳吗？ Are we ever going to see the sun again?
只有一天 One day.
四月末日落之后将是长达4个月的极夜
猜你开始习惯了 Guess you start to get used
没有阳光的生活 to living in a world without light.
白天变短 夜晚变长 The days get short and the nights get long
直到夜晚变得很长 'till the nights get real long.
直到月底 Towards the end of the month there...
然后就没太阳了 there's no more sun
而且... 这就是她所写的 and... that's all she wrote.
我很害怕即将到来的黑暗 I was scared of the coming darkness
即将到来的黑暗 the coming darkness
会持续几个月 我在想 for so many months and I thought
这会吞噬我吗 is that going to get to me?
会不会使我 Is that going to make me...
好吧 这将会怎样影响我呢 well, how will that affect me?
我非常的害怕这会... I was pretty scared of that and how that might...
会改变我 just change me.
离开极地期间 I would correspond with winter-overs
我会和过冬的人保持联系 when I was off the ice
你能从他们的邮件中发现 and you could just see it in their emails.
他们会改变 They would change.
我感觉 哇哦 那是不是也会改变我 And I'm like wow is that going to change me?
我不知道 I don't know.
当极光在天空中变幻多端的时候 As it is the light changes enough in the sky
我仍然觉得 that it's still seems to me
太阳似乎就在那个附近 that the sun is just around the corner.
并且我觉得那对我产生了极大的影响 And I think that's had a great effect on me because
因为它提醒我 it just reminds me that no,
这里不仅仅只有黑暗 it's not just dark.
所有的站点注意 Attention all stations
做好迎接恶劣天气的准备 standby for a severe weather condition announcement.
McMurdo的天气达到恶劣天气一级 McMurdo weather has set Severe Weather Condition One
McMurdo Station T-site Arrival Heights McMurdo Station, T-site, Arrival Heights,
出现暴风一级警报时 所有人不允许外出
Pegasus Field Pegasus Field,
Williams Field 通往Williams Field... Williams Field, road to Williams Field...
快来看 Check this out.
一级警报
这是前往我们宿舍的入口 This is the entryway to our dorm.
通常地上会铺着地毯 Normally this has carpet on the ground
墙就是普通的墙 你知道 and the walls are just normally walls, you know,
但是... But...
我们现在要去打开那扇门 We're going to open the door right now
而这有点像去打开 and it's a little bit like opening up
通往另一个世界的大门 the door to another world.
准备好了吗 Are you ready?
现在外面风还真有点大 It's a little bit blowy out there right now.
如你所知 当你在这里看电视的时候 You know, when you watch television here
你看到外面的世界里 and you see all the things
各种不对劲的事情 that are going wrong in the world
你知道吗 感觉 you know that's...
就是感谢上苍让我生活在这里 it's like thank goodness I'm here.
但是你也会看到一些节目有 But then you also then watch shows where
摇曳的棕榈树 you see swaying palm trees
和人们的欢声笑语 and people laughing
以及田园风光 and bucolic scenes
然而你却不在其中 and you're not there.
你身处于一个黑暗寒冷狂风肆虐的地方 You're here where it's dark and cold and windy.
冬天大多数时间都在 维修夏天用的设备和工具
有很多需要完成的清算工作通常 需要在不保温的仓库中完成
我当时正在冰海之上 I was out on the sea ice,
然后突然之间从观测山那边 and suddenly off of Observation Hill
有光波一浪一浪迎面而来 comes rolling these just waves...
碧绿色的波浪 waves of green...
就像仙尘一样 like fairy dust.
就像一个仙尘组成的巨大帘幕 Like a giant curtain of fairy dust
在我的头顶上连绵起伏 just kind of undulating over me
它填满了整个天空并且像海浪般波动 that filled the whole sky and just moved in waves across.
我想这如果不是外星人要绑架你 And I thought this is either what it looks like
所看到的场景 if aliens are about to abduct you.
因为它几乎让你觉得触手可及 and almost like you feel like you could reach up and touch it.
不然就是 你是一个相信有天堂的人 Or if you're a person who believes in Heaven...
你会在天堂看到的景观 maybe this is what you see when you go to Heaven.
我不敢肯定 I'm not sure,
但这于我而言确实是一次情绪强烈的改变人生的经历 but it was really an emotional life-changing experience for me.
我是说我自己都没有发现我已经这样做了 I mean I really found myself not realizing I'd done it.
当我意识到自己的姿势的时候 When I figured out where my body position was
我正双膝跪地哭泣 I was actually on my knees and I was crying.
因为它于我而言是无与伦比的美丽 Like that's how beautiful it was to me.
现在是六月 It's the month of June
而此刻是正午 and right now it's the middle of the day.
六七月基本处于完全黑暗中
我生长在一个非常偏远的地区 I grew up in a very rural area
所以我能够十分清晰地看见星星 so I could see the stars very well...
在Minnesota郊区 In rural Minnesota.
我当时在山里 And I've been in the mountains
你知道的 Colorado and, you know, Colorado.
我当时就在想 哇哦 天空真美 And I thought wow the sky looks beautiful.
但我不曾知道一颗星星可以闪烁出... But I never knew a star could flash like...
亮粉色 亮绿色 fluorescent pink... fluorescent green...
亮蓝色 亮白色 fluorescent blue... white...
不断循环着 just in that rotation.
一直bling bling地闪耀 just blink-blink- blink-blink-blink.
这只是其中一颗而已 One star
对我来说 它看起来就像闪光灯 like...it looks like a strobe light to me.
而在这里 有那么多星星 看起来 There's a lot of them that look
就像悬挂在天空上的闪光灯 like a strobe light up there.
你将永远不会知道... And you would never know...
永远不会知道... you'd never know...
天空看起来是怎样的 what the sky looks like.
这非常奇妙 It's wonderful.
我喜欢这24小时的漫漫长夜 I loved the 24 hours of darkness.
也许在满月之夜 或其他夜晚 Maybe on full moon nights, and other nights,
我能看见山脉 I would see the mountains.
但有时候 我会忘记这里原本就有山脉 But sometimes I'd forget the mountains were even there.
就此 我的整个世界就沉浸于这小小的空间里 And so my entire world was just in the little spaces
四处漫步 and walking around.
这真的会改变你的认知 It really does change your perception.
直至夏天的尽头 Towards the end of summer,
我一直最期待的事情是 the thing I was most looking forward to was
能够再经历一次黑暗 seeing darkness again.
就像我所期待夜间一般 Like I just wanted to see some nighttime.
而现在正值夜晚 And now that it's night time.
我此时此刻不那么想念那一天 I don't really miss the day that much right now.
我们在这里每年只吃三顿晚餐 We have three dinners here each year.
当然 现在冬季中旬出现了日落 Of course our sunset now at the midwinter,
并且就想我们知道的一样 日出不再遥远 and as we all know that sun rise isn't far away.
所以我希望你斟满杯 So I'd like you to charge your glasses
为友谊干杯 为这种持久深厚的友谊干杯 and to friendships and long-lasting friendships.
谢谢 Thank you.
干杯 Cheers!
这是一个非常寒冷的 It's very cool that there is
在南极的一个独一无二的假期 a unique holiday in Antarctica
来自世界各地的人们都来庆祝 that people from all over the world celebrate
我们也为他们送去诚挚的问候 and we send greetings to each other,
以及为他们送去美好的祝愿 and good will to each other,
铭记首次带领我们来到这里的历史 and remember the history that brought us here
in the first place
以及我们来到此地的初心 and the goals of what we're up to
here in the first place.
而这真的... And it's just...
真的太美好了 it's wonderful.
我真的很喜欢隆冬时节 I really liked the mid-winter time.
噢 天呐 Oh God.
好吧 让我彻底清醒了 Well, that woke me up.
过来 Brody Come on, Brody.
跳吧 跳吧 跳吧 Do it. Do it. Do it.
感觉怎么样 How is it?
好冷 Cold.
有一天我从外面回来 The other day I came in from outside
Christine问我外面冷不冷 and Christine asked me is it cold outside today?
我说 不 And I said "Oh no.
不是特别冷 It's not too bad. "
然后 And then it struck me...
我被这段荒谬的谈话震惊到了 the absurdity of the conversation
因为我们身处南极洲 because we're in Antarctica,
而那时正值隆冬时节 It's the middle of winter,
她竟然问我外面冷不冷 and she's asking me if it's cold outside.
其次那时的温度低至零下40摄氏度 And secondly it was 40 below.
我们已经有几个月没见过太阳了 We haven't seen the sun for months
我竟然觉得那天还不错 and I thought it was a nice day.
如此看来 我们对常态的定义发生了转变 So it's fascinating the way our perceptions
这是种很奇妙的感觉 of what we consider normal have shifted.
906 这里是消防站 Nine, zero, six. Firehouse
三级警报
正在接通906 Go for nine, zero, six.
你好 我想询问一下进展 Hey just checking on the progress
Scott Base路现在通了吗 is Scott Base road open again?
还没有 我们还需要10分钟 That is a negative. We need 10 more minutes.
一周六个工作日 我们都得待在日光灯之下 Being in this office-type setting under fluorescents
待在这个类似办公室的地方 for the six-day work week,
我想那最后成了一个巨大的挑战 I think that ended up being much more...
因为我不在户外 of a challenge because I wasn't outside
也没做什么事 and doing anything.
这里是消防站 我是Genevieve Firehouse, Genevieve.
当然 稍等 Sure, one sec.
努力打破每天 Trying to break out of that rut of just...
醒来...工作... waking... going to work...
吃饭...睡觉... eating... sleeping...
这样循环往复的模式 and doing it all over again.
这里是消防站 我是Genevieve Firehouse, Genevieve.
许多人每天都在做 A lot of people work the same thing
同样的事情 every day
但是他们不太适应在活动时 总是重复 and they're not used to repetitive motions
同样的动作 in their actions.
每天做同样的事情 It can be kind of tiring
让人感到有点枯燥乏味 just to do the same thing every day
你需要给生活增添一点趣味 You have to bring some spice into it.
谢谢 Thank you.
Francis 你在麦克默多的厨师和我 Francis, your chef at McMurdo,
交换了一些东西 we exchange a few.
他带来了他的蜂蜜酒 He brought his mead
我给了他一瓶这种 and I gave him a bottle,
由九种酒混合制成的酒 this mixed-nine bottle.
他说这非常好喝 And he says it's a very good drink.
那么 你觉得味道怎么样呢 So well, tell me what you think?
-干杯 -干杯 - Cheers. - L'chaim.
冬季的到来给我们提供了 The winter season sets up and offers more
一个自省的机会 of an introspective outlook...
你可以用那段时间来看书 where you can take the time to read
也可以钻研某项技艺 or work on a craft.
当然你也可以和别人一起玩 There's still times you can have fun with people, too.
但是我认为独处的时光对自己 But I think it really helps
大有裨益 if you can spend that time alone.
只要手里拿着一本好书 你就别无他求了 There's no substitute for just having a good book in your hand.
这是Andrew Weil的书 Andrew Weil.
这本书的字体非常非常小 Now it's a very small small print here.
圣经中的希伯来文 Biblical Hebrew.
圣经中的希伯来文语法 Grammar of biblical Hebrew.
我编织毛衣 I knit.
这能使我冬日里狂躁的情绪得到平复 It keeps away the feeling of stir craziness in the winter
我狂躁时会想扯掉自己的头发 when I just feel like I might like to tear my hair out
还会想跑出去尖叫 and run outside screaming.
到冬季末尾的时候 Towards the end of winter
严寒 疲劳 the extreme cold, the fatigue,
以及长时间对阳光和新刺激的缺乏 and constant lack of sunlight or any new stimulus
会引起T3综合征 creates a condition called T3 Syndrome.
各站点请注意 Attention all stations,
时刻准备发布极寒天气预警 standby for a severe weather condition announcement.
NSS... The N-S-S...
NSF的负责人 N - S - F station manager,
已经针对以下站点制定了 has set severe weather condition one for...
极寒天气预警 the following locations.
我在商店工作 So I work at the store,
我们每天11:30在营业中 and we open every day at 11:30,
这个人几乎每天 and almost every day
都会过来 this person comes in
然后大概在11:35或者11:40的时候买点东西 and buys something at like 11:35 or 11:40.
我们的对话一成不变 We have the same conversation.
通常就给他一盒烟 I usually give him a pack of cigarettes.
然后前几天在同一时间 And the other day at about the same time
他走进来 然后说 he comes in and he goes "Wow!
哇 我都不知道你们的店这个点还在营业 I didn't know you guys opened at this time.
你们一直都营业到这个时候吗 Have you always been open at this time?"
我就想 And I was like,
一直是这样啊 你每天都过来 So and so, you come in every single day.
而且每天都买一样的东西 You buy the same thing every single day.
可他居然说 And he was just like,
哇 我从来没想过你们这个点还在营业 "Wow, I never thought you guys were open at this time. "
并且还是一副迷茫的样子 and he just kind of wandered off.
这里是消防站 我是Genevieve Firehouse, Genevieve.
几天前Talie打电话过来 A couple of days ago Talie called and I said
我说 噢 Taile 接到你的电话我非常开心 "Oh, Talie, I'm so glad you called.
我刚才正在想 在想你 I was just thinking about... I was thinking about you.
我正准备呼叫你 I was just about to page you. "
她说 你确实呼叫过我 And she said, "Well you did page me. "
所以我完全忘了我呼叫过她 So I had completely forgotten that I had paged her.
而且这种情况似乎发生过许多次了 And that seems to happen more times than not.
曾经有一次 我要到外面去 There was a time where... I was... had to go outside
主管人员扔给了我一双靴子 and the chief she tossed down a pair of boots.
我走过去穿上了 I go ahead and I put them on
我穿着它们到处走 and I'm walking around in them
但是那双靴子穿着感觉很奇怪 they feel really weird.
我不知道是为什么 I don't know why.
我走到停车处的门那里 I get to the door of the bay
正准备离开 where I'm leaving and...
往下一看才发现 and I look down and...
我把靴子穿错脚了 they're on the wrong feet.
所以我又走回去 把鞋脱掉 So I walk back, I pull them off.
我脱了右脚的鞋 放在一边 I take the right boot off and set it down.
再脱了左脚的鞋 放在一边 And take the left boot off and set it down.
然后拿起第一只鞋 I pick up the first one
又穿回了左脚 and put it on the same foot I just had it on
接着穿... and put on the...
我就这么穿穿脱脱 So I had basically taken them off
结果还是反穿着鞋 and put them back on the wrong feet
走出去了 and walked outside again.
从1999年开始我就一直在这里 I've been coming down here since '99
这里... so it's kind of...
这里的生活对我来说也没什么差别 it's all the same to me pretty much.
因为之前的生活已经不复存在 都记不清了 It's gone. My memory is gone.
我记得有一次我要给我爸打电话 I remember trying to call my Dad
他的号码一直没变 我从小就记得 at the same phone number I grew up with.
但我却想不起来了 I couldn't remember it.
我发现当我试着... I caught myself trying to...
我花了十几秒钟 It took me over 10 seconds
才想起来字母表上S是在T的前面还是后面 to remember if S came before or after T in the alphabet.
这就像是一个信号 And that was like a sign.
它提醒我要站起来 离开办公桌 I need to get up and away from my desk
自我调节一下 and get a grip.
额 Ahhhhh.
我说"额"的次数越来越多 I've started saying "Ahhh" a lot more
我以前从不说"额" than I ever used to and it's not something
现在也不是故意要这么说的 I mean to do.
只是用它来消磨一点时间 it's just something that I use to fill the time
来这儿之前 我完全不会像这个样子 where I never did that before I came down here.
完全不会 我是说 我会说"啊" I never, I mean, I would say "Ah",
但从来不说"额" but I would never say "Ahhhhhhhhhhh. "
你 额 You ahhhh...
我的T3综合征又犯了 I just had a T3 moment.
思维掉线了 I totally forgot my line of thinking.
对不起 你刚才问了什么 Sorry, what was the original question?
即使只有一丝也好 真希望能感受一下 If there's any way to bottle or bring in
夏天的味道 just the smell of summer...
花朵的芬芳 the scent of flowers...
雨水的清冽 绿草的清新 and of rain and of green grass
河流的气息 and of rivers.
很想念稻香 The smell of crops and corn
即使是垃圾的臭味也好 and just the smell of dirt.
这里居然连垃圾的臭味都没有 There's no smell of dirt here.
到处都是火山的气味 It's all volcanic.
天啊 Oh man.
我想念绵绵细雨 I miss the rain
想念青枝绿叶 想念潺潺流水 and trees and water and...
我思念我的家人 好想再敲敲侄子的脑袋 family and my knuckle-head nephews.
来到这儿 错过了许多事情 You do miss out on quite a bit.
也确实做出了一些牺牲 You do make some sacrifices coming down here.
我可能再也不想重复地过冬天了 I probably would never repeat winter.
问题在于 The problem is...
你永远不知道 you never know
谁会陪你走到最后 who you'll end up with.
感觉就像你被困住了 You almost feel like you're stuck...
困在这座小镇里 stuck in a really small town
四周一片虚无 and there's nothing else out there...
直到太阳再次出现 until the sun starts coming out.
你才又一次意识到身在何处 And then you realize where you are again.
八月 There's a great feeling of anticipation
当暮色悄然来临时 when twilight begins
心中会燃起强烈的渴望 to creep back into the sky in August.
那种感觉就像是重新回到了孩提时代 It's a bit like being a child again
期待着圣诞节的到来 waiting for Christmas.
八月也是一年之中最冷的时候 August is also the coldest time of the year.
天空中珠母云的数量骤增 And nacreous clouds will start to form a lot more.
虽然它们的形成过程 Although this is part of the process
会对臭氧层造成破坏 that is destroying the ozone layer,
但当太阳光照射到珠母云时 when the sun finally does hit them
那景象让人叹为观止 it can look incredible.
如同火光燃尽了整片天空 like the entire sky in on fire.
看日出从来都是 Seeing the sun is always still
最震撼人心的经历 the most amazing experience.
我一直盼 一直等 等太阳再次升起 I wait for it I wait for it to come back.
我总会等到那一刻的 And then there'll be that moment where I see it.
虽然我不知道它什么时候来临 And I never know when that moment is going to be.
但当曙光打破黑暗的沉寂之时 But when it happens,
我会原地驻足 I just have to stop wherever I am.
静静地立着 注视这瑰丽的景象 Stop in my tracks and I just look at it.
我只想把这个场景深深地镌刻在脑海里 I just want it to fill the inside of my head,
只想让阳光直直地照射进我的眼睛里 just let that sun come right through my eyes.
这是一种生命力的赠予 It's the life-giving thing.
好 开始 Okay, away you go.
这是一杯开水 In this cup is boiling water.
外面的气温是零下40度 It's 40 below zero outside.
当你把开水泼出去 This is what happens when you throw
看到的景象是这样的 boiling hot water into 40 below zero air.
看好了 Here we go.
第一架"冬日航班"在八月末抵达
Winfly降落后 基地的人数翻了一番 The Population on base suddenly doubles at Winfly
对于我们这些熬过了整个寒冬的人来说 and for those of us who have wintered over
新面孔的到来 the arrival of a whole new crowd of faces
让人有些不知所措 can be a bit bewildering.
太古怪了 It's kind of crazy.
我认为人们要么觉得很振奋 I think people either are energized by it
要么很反感 or just the opposite.
老手们从新人身上获得能量 They have energy drawn from them
我是相当于新人那一类的 and I would tend to be one of those people
人们看到我总能变得更有活力 who have energy drawn from me.
我不太喜欢新人过来 I'm not a big fan of when all the folks come in.
6个多月来 每天都见到那么几张熟脸 For six months you've seen only the same people every day.
没有其他人 There hasn't been anyone new.
突然之间 一个个生面孔闯了进来 All of a sudden you've got all these new people coming through.
的确是挺欣喜的 Kind of this feeling of glee and happiness
但偶尔也能听到"啊 离我远一点"之类的抱怨 mixed with revulsion like, "Aggghhh, stay away!"
我甚至看到有老手 And I've even seen winter-overs kind of hide
躲在角落往外看 behind corners and kind of look out.
整个寒冬我们都处于一个封闭的环境里 We've had a closed community over the winter
没有细菌 没有人生病 and there's been no germs, no one gets sick.
现在新人来了 也带来了病菌 But new people come in... new germs.
他们都活力四射 并且都有着小麦色的皮肤 They all have all this energy and they're orange.
我是说我们一直在讨论这些肤色健康的人 I mean we always talk about the orange people
他们的皮肤都是棕黄色的 because they're tanned.
你并没有意识到我们的肤色有多苍白 You don't really realize how pale we all are
这是缺乏阳光造成的 from lack of sunshine.
走过厨房时 Just walking through the galley,
我觉得我步履迟缓 I felt like I was moving at this little pace
而周围的人都 and everyone else was rushing around...
脚步匆匆 around me.
我那时很惊讶 因为我们居然有一种领土遭到侵犯的感觉 I was surprised at how territorial we all were.
还记得我从停机线那儿回来以后 I remember getting back from the flight line
就径直去吃晚饭 and coming straight to dinner.
我拿着托盘和盘子 And I got my tray and my plate
抬头看到前面排的长队 and I looked up and I saw a line.
感觉异常愤怒 And I was so livid
因为我得排队 that I had to wait in line.
这些新人 These new people they
还没有加入项目 weren't with the program yet.
他们不知道自己在干什么 They didn't know what they were doing
这里的整个节奏都被打乱了 the whole routine was messed up.
我火冒三丈 And I was so livid.
愤怒到想用叉子去捅人 I felt like I could have stabbed somebody with a fork.
我不能理解 And I didn't understand it.
我问自己 为什么会这么生气 I'm like, "Why am I so angry?"
因为没法在厨房里吃饭 I couldn't eat in the galley.
所以我上楼回到自己的房间 I went up to my room.
我坐在房间里 And... I'm sitting in my room
沉思了5分钟 for about 5 minutes contemplating about
想我为什么如此生气 why I was so angry.
接着有人敲我的门 And then I get knocks on my door
是消防站其余的人 and it's the rest of the Firehouse.
"我们可以和你一起在这儿吃吗" "Can we eat in here with you?"
好的 Yeah.
所以我们坐了半个小时 So we sat down and for half an hour
边吃饭边看电视 we ate our meals watching TV.
大家都默不作声 这很美妙 Didn't say a word to each other and it was beautiful.
在最初的几天 The first few days,
或者说第一周 or maybe the first week,
我感受到了文化冲击 is kind of a culture shock.
你懂的 周围环境在动态化 You know, the dynamics change.
噪声越来越大 The noise level rises.
但是在那之后 看着新人们 But after that the new people that come here
精力充沛的样子 they have so much energy
我也感到活力焕发 and I find that it brings me up.
我做事更加积极 And I actually get more excited about getting stuff done
也更愿意四处走动 and moving around.
新人的到来唤醒了我 It kind of wakes me up.
Keri 在六个月之后终于吃到一个新鲜苹果的感觉怎么样 Keri, how does it feel to have a fresh apple after 6 months?
我要去迪斯尼世界
橘子还是苹果 Orange, apple?
为什么不躲起来吃呢 Why don't you take that behind doors?
我肯定很快也会拿到一个 I'm sure I'll get one very soon.
小心别碰坏了香蕉 Be gentle with the banana.
我很乐意能够 I would love to be able
把我在这里看到的景色 to show the people who I love the most
分享给最爱的人 what it looks like down here...
让他们知道这里冬季天空的样子 what the sky looks like down here in winter.
因为他们永远不会有机会看到这些 Because they're never going to see it.
这很有意思 It's funny.
在冬季到来之前 我们会讲一些故事 Right before winter started we'd tell these stories
讲述我们患上T3综合症 而且肤色愈发苍白的这个过程 about how you'd get T3 and you get pale
然后我们就变得多愁善感了 and you're just emotional sometimes.
那些从来没经历过冬天的新人 And these people who have never wintered
好像看神经病一样看着我们 are looking at us like we're freaks.
就好像在说 Like why would you ever
你们为什么不试着捱过去呢 put yourself through something like that?
到最后 And then, at the end,
我们会看着彼此 然后说 we'd look at each other and say,
冬天最好了 "Winter's the best.
没有之一 It's the greatest. "
我试着讲述我的经历 I try and explain the experience,
向家里的人讲述我在南极洲的经历 the Antarctic experience, to people back home,
他们很喜欢听 and they love hearing about it.
听我讲那些故事 听我描述南极洲的样子 The stories and what it's like.
但是 你要知道 But, you know that...
他们只是... 只是无法理解而已 they just... they will never get it.
他们永远无法真正理解这里真正的样子 They'll never fully comprehend what it's like down here.
所以如果你要在南极洲再停留一年 So if you were to spend another year down here
你会做些什么改变呢 what would you do differently?
不会再带那么多行李 Not bring as much stuff.
在这里 我遇到了一群世界上最好的人 I've met some of the best people in the world here.
我想主要原因在于 And I think a lot of that is because of the fact
到这里来的人 that those of us that come here
都富有冒险精神 always have a kind of a spirit of adventure.
也正是这种精神 将我们凝聚在一起 And that's something that kind of binds us together.
现在或许是 These might be...
南极洲的黄金时代 the golden years of Antarctica.
现在 科学研究正在进行 Right now, what is being done is science.
目前已经有条约规定 Right now there's a treaty that says
来这里的目的是团结协作 you get to be here to cooperate,
共筑和平 look for peace,
并且为了全人类进行探索 and look for knowledge for mankind.
我想象不到还有别的什么地方 And I just can't think of another place
存在这样的合作和探索精神 所以我真的很荣幸 where that's really going on so I feel really privileged
能成为南极洲的一份子 to be a citizen of Antarctica right now.
千真万确 I really really do.
以后 有人会找到方法 And some day, somebody is going to find a way
开采石油并将其商业化 to get oil commercially.
以后 那些条约会被终止 And some day, the treaty is going to end
以后 你知道的... And some day, you know...
我不知道我们能不能一直这样愉快的玩耍下去 I don't know that we'll always be able to play as nice
就像现在这样 as we can right now.
你开始来南极洲只是为了探险 You come down here out of a sense of adventure.
之后却被这里迷住 But then it gets its hooks in you.
然后你发现 and you realize
原来它是那么的神奇而脆弱 how magic and fragile it all is.
如果我们不够小心 And if we're not careful,
如果我们不够谨慎 if we're not conscientious,
这里就会被破坏殆尽 It could all get ruined.
想象你住在一栋房子里 Imagine you live in a house.
而这里只是其中一个房间 And this is just one room in your house...
虽然它冷到没有人住 a cold room where nobody lives.
但它仍然是你房子里的一个房间 But it's still a room in your house
你仍然会在意这个房间 and as such you have to care about this room.
而且你必须了解那里在发生着什么 And you have to know about what's going on there.
英语里有一种很好的表达 There is a good expression in the English language:
内心宁静 peace of mind.
我真的很喜欢这种表达 I really like it.
拥有内心的宁静是一件非常美好的事 Peace of mind is a very nice thing to have.
你在这里交到的朋友和你在这里的回忆 The friends you make and the memories
都会伴随你一生 that you take from here last a lifetime.
我遇到过五十年前就南下到过这里的人 I've met guys who were down here 50 years ago
在这个世界上他们最想做的事 who would like nothing more in the world
莫过于再回到这儿来... than the chance to come back again...
再有这样一次机会 just one more time.
你明白你永远不会真的把这个地方叫做家 You know you can never really call this place home.
但同时却有一种亲切感 But at the same time there's a familiarity
在这儿悄然而生 that just builds up.
在我离开之后 我一定会想念这里 I definitely long for it when I'm away.
我很希望在任期结束之后 I fully expect that my time here
我能够继续呆在这里 is not going to end on my terms.
这个项目能够也许会有所改变 The program could change
不过我可能通不过体格检查... or I might not pass the physical...
或者可能不会再有这样一份工作 or there might not be a job.
没有人能无期限地留在这里 No one gets to stay here indefinitely.
当轮到你离开的时候 And then the time comes when it's you turn to leave
你永远也不会知道 and you never really do know for sure
自己是否还能再回来 if you'll ever be back again.
美国空军
我想起一件 One of the things I recall
发生在我重回人类社会时候的事 in the process of reacclimating to society
那是一个周一的早晨 was a Monday morning.
大概是早上八点半 It's probably 8:30 in the morning
我被堵在路上 and I am stuck in traffic.
我记得我看着那些我周围的车子 I remember looking at all the cars around me.
每个人都正在...在他们自己的小... Everybody's... they're in their own little...
他们都深陷在这世上枯燥乏味的工作中 They're in the grind of the world.
我控制不住地又去观察每个人 And I can't help but look at everybody else
然后想着... and think...
他们像牛一样 they're cattle.
这好比就是一个大牧群从一个地方转移到另一个地方 It's just one big herd moving from point A to point B.
而...就在那时 and... at that point
我很想再回到南极 I wanted to be back on the Ice again.
直到你离开了南极 It's not until you get off the Ice
才会意识到那里的气味比这儿单纯的多... that you realize the absence of smell that we have here...
一切都消散了 the absence of odors.
所以嗯... So yeah...
你能去植物园 you can go to the Botanical Gardens
一次闻个够 for an olfactory overload.
我会到新世界超市去 I'm going to go to the New World Supermarket
站在农产品区 and I'm going to stand in the produce section
然后闻上十五分钟 and just smell the air
那里的气味 for about 15 minutes.
翻
译
永远18的黑乌鸦酱想去南极捂捂白
边吃夜宵边减肥xuan
颤抖吧地球人我是蘑菇喵
lorraine并不叫裸rain
臭氧层上的洞洞～
一些颇有嚼劲的硬皮面包 some really good chewy crusty bread,
一块棒得没话说的蓝纹乳酪 a hunk of really good blue cheese,
翻
译
Sei跪穿地球去南极
啦啦啦啦啦Rala
然而根本找不到的Tea
额头比脑洞大的aloevera
hola去富士基地找堺叔
一个牛油果和一些无籽红提 an avocado and some red grapes with no seeds.
这些东西我准备吃上三顿 And that's what I'm going to eat for like 3 meals.
在冬天里会有这样的时候 There comes a point in the winter
那时... when...
至少我们这些 at least us, the guys,
呆在消防站的汉子 us in the Firehouse,
时
间
轴
pinky求软妹正太来轴坑
C宝宝撸个片任务多到醉心想飞南极
不会再讨论女人 we stop talking about women.
而是高谈起各种美食 And we start talking about food
因为那真的是更切实际的期望 because it's a much more realistic prospect.
精
校
在南方沒有暖氣的艷陽里大雪紛飛冷成狗的小粉筆
脑洞大开校对不走剧本路线C大大
帅裂苍穹玉你值得拥有 ！
起名苦手业
所以... So...
我已经缩小范围 下定决心 I've narrowed it down. I'm going to go
我要大吃特吃牛排和龙虾 and I'm going to have steak and lobster.
大肆挥霍一番 I'm going to splurge.
风味十足的生鲜蔬菜 Fresh vegetables with flavor.
塔可钟的墨西哥卷饼 A bean burrito from Taco Bell.
黑面包 Dark bread.
牛油果 Avocado.
花椰菜 Cauliflower.
一碗有纯正的切片香蕉牛奶 A bowl of cornflakes with real milk
薄脆玉米片 and sliced bananas.
新西兰林荫大道的火腿蛋松饼 Eggs Benedict at the Boulevard in New Zealand.
基督城的东西永远都那么棒 Anything in Christchurch is always good.
任何食物都是非制度化的 Anything non-institutional.
当回到新西兰后 最最期待的一件事 When I get back to New Zealand the first thing I long to do
后
期
&
特
效
CC懒到无极限根本不想duang一下
做特效做到死的Kay
小CC想特别鸣谢的牧好好
唔 我要漫步在植物园中 well first, first thing is go through the Botanic Gardens
轻触茸茸的芳草 细闻幽幽的花香 and just touch the grass and smell the flowers.
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但之后我会试着去看看大海 But then I try to get to the ocean
也许是去感受那种情绪 to see that motion I guess.
-你现在正站在大海之上呢 -没错 - You're standing on the ocean now. - Exactly.
所以这才有趣 而且我是个喜欢爬山的妹子 That's what's so funny. And I'm a mountain girl,
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所以以前从未有过这样的想法 so it's never been a draw before.
光脚踩在草地上 Walk barefoot in grass.
我准备直飞华府 回到家中 I'm going to fly straight home to Washington State.
我要先用两三周来痛痛快快地钓鱼 用飞蝇钓法 And I'm going to fly-fish my brains out for about 3 weeks
专钓鲑鱼和虹鳟 going for salmon and steel head.
我想我会钓到吐了再停下 And when I puke, I think that's when I'll stop.
我真的喜欢睡在我自己的床上 I really like going to sleep in my own bed.
我真的很喜欢...天呐 下雨 I really like... Oh rain.
只是听一听淅淅沥沥的雨声看一看纷纷扬扬的雨丝 Just hearing the rain and seeing it
心随雨动融入其中 这感觉超棒啊 feeling it again. Wonderful
我打算什么都不做 I plan on doing nothing.
我希望我在基督城的时候起码能下一天的雨 I hope it rains at least one day while I'm in Christchurch,
这样我就能在雨里四处闲逛了 just so I can wander around in the rain.
我很愿意这样做 I'd love that.
我真希望...我想要它下雨 I hope it's... I want some rain.
好好睡一觉 Have a decent sleep.
好好睡上好几天 Have a decent sleep for a few days.
我不知道 I don't know.
住进一家旅馆 好好洗个热水澡 Check into a hotel room and take a bath.
我的大脑都要结冰了 My brain is freezing.
让我想想 Let me think.
我觉得我的大脑都要冻住了我没办法思考 I think my brain is freezing now and I can't think.
下一个问题 Skip that question.